tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-63953799556274056782024-03-04T23:36:43.608-08:00Le Mouchoir ParfuméLhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06337130794193959645noreply@blogger.comBlogger211125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6395379955627405678.post-35823000133429361992017-06-10T08:17:00.001-07:002017-06-10T08:17:57.911-07:00You or Someone Like You Review<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisO64NGIufDpeCospVlz8Kdedu5B5Jkijpl2Fa7JNUH5FD6J8uswassu1Ntyfi3Sc7IcWhVooMEQvr9lJeingVt7JQ_33XCROb_NyesQ76UlhCMkSYEG2wL93gPeu9A5fbrbUOpb5TdqI/s1600/nd.43531.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="441" data-original-width="300" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisO64NGIufDpeCospVlz8Kdedu5B5Jkijpl2Fa7JNUH5FD6J8uswassu1Ntyfi3Sc7IcWhVooMEQvr9lJeingVt7JQ_33XCROb_NyesQ76UlhCMkSYEG2wL93gPeu9A5fbrbUOpb5TdqI/s200/nd.43531.jpg" width="135" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">With an almost
aggressive refusal to disclose any notes or materials ('if you need to know
what it's made of, don't wear it; <i>You</i><span style="font-size: small;">
is not for you'*), Chandler Burr's collaboration with perfumer Caroline Sabas is
being sold as 'what a Los Angeles woman would wear'. More specifically, it is
the perfume Burr imagines Anne Rosenbaum - the protagonist in his 2009 work of fiction You or Someone Like You, wears. <o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Backstory and
marketing aside, You or Someone Like You (the perfume) is modern and green,
opening with the smell of fresh cut grass ((Z)-3-hexen-1-ol), here turned peachy/peary/appley
with Liffarome and given an interesting minty twist before moving into a simple
and uncluttered muguet and Hedione/jasmine heart. A blend of clean,
slightly starchy musks and light amber provide moderate fixation. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span lang="EN-GB"><o:p>*</o:p></span>https://etatlibredorange.com/boutique/you-or-someone-like-you/</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><o:p><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Nose: Caroline
Sabas<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">House: Etat Libre
d'Orange<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Release date: 2017</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Notes (per
Fragrantica): none.</span></div>
Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06337130794193959645noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6395379955627405678.post-6138245357159315962017-05-22T11:31:00.001-07:002017-05-22T22:53:54.314-07:00Saltus Review<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi21Hlx3UnCuOb-nXGeRPuD_ciz_trhuBSf9ObPynVBtdBlRMfrbHJTtjLXodOBbnlIiTaYG1yGUIl5YjmRuri6WsINYzBI-1hNMCbhFKJISrHjYOQUmg9pNZVkrv0TCq19-9ug-C-yi9M/s1600/nd.29614.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi21Hlx3UnCuOb-nXGeRPuD_ciz_trhuBSf9ObPynVBtdBlRMfrbHJTtjLXodOBbnlIiTaYG1yGUIl5YjmRuri6WsINYzBI-1hNMCbhFKJISrHjYOQUmg9pNZVkrv0TCq19-9ug-C-yi9M/s200/nd.29614.jpg" width="133" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">In its primary sense, Latin <i>saltūs</i> m. means ‘jump, leap’ (cf. assault, somersault). It is to the secondary set of developed meanings ‘woodland, uncultivated land’ however, that Shyamala Maisondieu’s composition presumably points.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Uncompromisingly thujonic-terpenic, Saltus opens with a mix of cedar leaves, eucalyptus, camphor and incense. It’s green and sappy but also smells strongly medicinal and, as far as those around you will be concerned, you could as well dab on some tea tree oil. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">That there emerges from underneath the milky tones of ethyl laitone mixed with castoreum will do little to reassure others you’re not trying to treat some weird skin infection. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">A very interesting perfume that’s thoughtfully constructed but not one I’d really ever wish to wear. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Nose: Shyamala Maisondieu</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">House: Les Liquides Imaginaires</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Release date: 2015</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Notes (per Fragrantica): cedar leaves, eucalyptus essence, camphor, styrax, ethyl laitone, patchouli, incense, tonka, castoreum artessence, Australian sandalwood. </span></div>
<br />Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06337130794193959645noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6395379955627405678.post-78105600499382796682017-05-13T07:28:00.000-07:002017-05-22T11:32:05.750-07:00Tellus Review<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvNvh2mh-4hGXwb8Vu3hXR7DiNdzpB4GD4HuoRGHnzQxHHkgldvcrTFyuv19tX8rozVz1k4PGoaVDkHMbiiPC-oO-FwFrloCs864CavG-Ps_H0fuhKVau38xyyH887NE-KiD4z__UR2ek/s1600/nd.29613.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvNvh2mh-4hGXwb8Vu3hXR7DiNdzpB4GD4HuoRGHnzQxHHkgldvcrTFyuv19tX8rozVz1k4PGoaVDkHMbiiPC-oO-FwFrloCs864CavG-Ps_H0fuhKVau38xyyH887NE-KiD4z__UR2ek/s200/nd.29613.jpg" width="133" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">From the Latin <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">tellūs</i> f. meaning ‘earth, ground’, Nadège Le Garlantezec’s
(Givaudan) composition magnifies patchouli’s earthy facets with the humid,
soil-like smell of Geosmin. </span></span><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Beside some sebaceous nuances from costus
oil replacer and further woody-spicy notes courtesy of Cashmeran, I find little
else of obvious note.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The perfume is substantive and quite
linear. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Nose: Nadège Le Garlantezec<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">House: Les Liquides Imaginaires<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Release date: 2015</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Notes (per Fragrantica): earth accord, Indonesian
patchouli, Cashmeran, lily, costus, mosses, Ambroxan, fir balsam, cistus.</span></div>
Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06337130794193959645noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6395379955627405678.post-45460005657283831772017-04-23T08:17:00.000-07:002017-04-23T08:17:07.650-07:00Cologne Indélébile Review<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWxszWarg0_eUvoGTpTVna4ARR8K5FNTZzbfwEDYbR9L7XqlnTP4E2lle-PlLRzrfStBpxONRWd-HCvjT4MIwGQcwRSnP7yyR52YubsSEWisB0BjmhnP4sLg9qyyg_T4ZmnNsRc4m0TEA/s1600/nd.30353.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWxszWarg0_eUvoGTpTVna4ARR8K5FNTZzbfwEDYbR9L7XqlnTP4E2lle-PlLRzrfStBpxONRWd-HCvjT4MIwGQcwRSnP7yyR52YubsSEWisB0BjmhnP4sLg9qyyg_T4ZmnNsRc4m0TEA/s200/nd.30353.jpg" width="133" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">If Geza Schoen were to ever include in his Molecule line a dilution of Habanolide/Globalide, the complementary Escentric composition could well smell like Cologne Indélébile. Constituting half the formula, the distinctive starchy, metallic, hot-iron signature of the <span style="line-height: normal;">11/12-pentadecen-15-olide isomers dominate this blend from top to bottom, relegating the hesperidic (orange blossom, bergamot, lemon) and floral (Hedione, narcissus) notes to mere supporting roles. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Having transferred some from my skin to my jumper sleeve by accident, I understand why this is called <i>indélébile</i> - even after a laundry wash, I can still smell it over whatever musks are in <a href="http://lemouchoirparfume.blogspot.co.uk/search/label/Persil%20Biological%20Detergent">my detergent</a> :/</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">For a more pleasant take on the Nu Cologne genre, cf. </span><a href="http://lemouchoirparfume.blogspot.co.uk/2016/10/cologne-review.html" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Alexandra Kosinski’s work for ELd’O.</a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Nose: Dominique Ropion</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">House: Editions de Parfum Frédéric Malle</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Release date: 2015</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Notes (per Fragrantica): bergamot, lemon, jasmine, narcissus, orange blossom, neroli, musk. </span></div>
Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06337130794193959645noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6395379955627405678.post-44922911062953957192017-04-17T04:53:00.000-07:002017-07-11T00:37:25.258-07:00Superstitious Review<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioeJY0XWQx77MtYVuFjpI-CegQeThHmEq3_q9jdNRq2U0JJZQ01Mp-XoPXOvLVGt-AB3Q8DKgRG9NDCPWVxNehI6-X7cQDCvco1y-164vjN-RKbbGixqSiIMsGM1bok11qUVxNQXNQymc/s1600/nd.41322.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioeJY0XWQx77MtYVuFjpI-CegQeThHmEq3_q9jdNRq2U0JJZQ01Mp-XoPXOvLVGt-AB3Q8DKgRG9NDCPWVxNehI6-X7cQDCvco1y-164vjN-RKbbGixqSiIMsGM1bok11qUVxNQXNQymc/s200/nd.41322.jpg" width="155" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">When the director of a perfume line drops names like Arpège in the same breath as their new launch, it’s generally safe to put the whole thing down to </span><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">exuberant marketing and move on. Unless, that is, the director happens to be Frédéric Malle and the perfumer behind the creation Dominique Ropion.</span><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Conceived in the lineage of the great aldehydic florals that dominated feminine perfumery from the 1920s (No.5, Arpège etc) through the 1960s (Madame Rochas), Superstitious not only reads as a modern hermeneutic but links to André Fraysse’s totemic creation through the creative input of former Lanvin artistic director Alber Elbaz (who, incidentally, also re-designed Arpège’s packaging back in 2009 for the house’s 120th anniversary). </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">In contrast to the self-styled retro chypres released by several indy outfits in recent years which are characterised by a heavy-handed use of animalics and muddy blends of natural extracts, Superstitious displays a resolutely modern aesthetic of precise, minimalist architecture and sheer radiance. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Softening the harsher facets of the aldehydic high notes is a floral heart dominated by a classic combination of rose+jasmine+a Lilial-type muguet note and diluted with Hedione for brightness. This is balanced with a long-lasting, sweet peach/apricot note of sunny disposition that recalls those specialty ingredients that usually have ‘nectar’ in their name (plus Liffarome?). Ionones meanwhile, serve as a customary bridge to the woody base notes of which sandalwood and Haitian vetiver are spoken of in the official description. Absent are the strong nutty associations carried by the latter, suggesting Ropion here perhaps followed Arpège’s model of using just a small amount of the oil to fill out a larger dose of the topped-and-tailed acetate. With a similar de-emphasis on vanillin/coumarin, the composition finally dries out to a very elegant blend of modern musks and a somewhat ambrox-y feeling amber(gris) note. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Nose: Dominique Ropion</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">House: Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Release date: 2017</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Notes (per Fragrantica): jasmine, rose, vetiver, patchouli, peach, incense, amber.</span></div>
Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06337130794193959645noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6395379955627405678.post-1994396448337802112017-04-14T12:15:00.000-07:002017-04-14T12:15:31.053-07:00Civet Review<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfgqqvyvIMZUYPyNrG06BuA_oxV97hBB6BEg3fygUJ_DJZrHNMDqQItBluEcNyCfrmV_sC1G4qAsLiLDJDbyhohXTYgxQyn6ycQJ4BTt4NOWRef1AicfeehTvC7C04urdgbExEZvKGo14/s1600/nd.42936.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfgqqvyvIMZUYPyNrG06BuA_oxV97hBB6BEg3fygUJ_DJZrHNMDqQItBluEcNyCfrmV_sC1G4qAsLiLDJDbyhohXTYgxQyn6ycQJ4BTt4NOWRef1AicfeehTvC7C04urdgbExEZvKGo14/s200/nd.42936.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Conceptually, I like Shelly Waddington’s approach to the brief which alludes to the programmatic note without (to all intents and purposes) actually featuring it. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A fruity-floral chypre, the composition features a lactonic peach note that, given the context, can’t help but recall Mitsouko which made famous Firmenich’s Persicol base. Where Jacques Guerlain’s masterpiece however, contrasted the sweetness of gamma-undecalactone with the austere dryness of vetiver oil (10%!), Civet links the fruit to a very dense, everything-but-the-kitchen-sink floral heart that undoubtedly contains a lot of quality naturals but doesn't leave much breathing space. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Beyond the vintage allusions, Civet humorously conjures its namesake with a Kopi Luwak (civet-poop coffee) note that leads down to the sort of heavy, balsamic, blond woods+musk=tobacco note base which has become a sort of byword for niche perfumery. Needless to say, longevity is not an issue. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Nose: Shelly Waddington</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">House: Zoologist</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Release date: 2016</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Notes (per Fragrantica): begamot, black pepper, spicers, tarragon, lemon, orange, carnation, frangipani, heliotrope, hyacinth, linden blossom, tuberose, ylang-ylang, canadian balsam, civet, coffee, incense, labdanum, musk, oakmoss, resins, russian leather, vanilla, vetiver, woodsy notes. </span></div>
Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06337130794193959645noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6395379955627405678.post-5450858692053531692017-03-27T11:58:00.000-07:002017-03-27T11:58:17.197-07:00Nightingale Review<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYEF92vGIguhJrbCbMXhLXVDwFt0WKP4AWcpVOYhmV5mYHJtaLHMJGjXXIS4THIjcB5umjCRGsVZaBnJdFtAjOejJbR9dzN6EAGuI4-9RY5kPZRaDCnPvPou110PGgnTs7HyyY7leSK0o/s1600/nd.40840.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYEF92vGIguhJrbCbMXhLXVDwFt0WKP4AWcpVOYhmV5mYHJtaLHMJGjXXIS4THIjcB5umjCRGsVZaBnJdFtAjOejJbR9dzN6EAGuI4-9RY5kPZRaDCnPvPou110PGgnTs7HyyY7leSK0o/s200/nd.40840.jpg" width="140" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A somewhat more conventional scent from
Zoologist, Nightingale is nonetheless a pretty chypre built around an
old-fashioned pairing of rose and violet. As in Chanel’s Misia, the rose gets a
raspberry jamminess thanks in part to the ionones and although some papery
associations aren’t too well covered in the earlier stages of the perfume’s
evaporation curve,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>the overall
development is pleasing and ultimately reveals a base that to me smells mostly of
labdanum, musks and a big dose of oakmoss replacer. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Nose: Tomoo Inaba<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">House: Zoologist<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Release date: 2016</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Notes (per Fragrantica): bergamot, lemon,
saffron, plum blossom, red rose, violet, oud, patchouli, sandalwood, oakmoss,
olibanum, white musk, labdanum, ambergris.</span></div>
Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06337130794193959645noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6395379955627405678.post-10289466580502930382017-03-19T13:15:00.000-07:002017-03-19T13:15:18.777-07:00Macaque Review<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgteISLfH-TeUkFlKNZuSpJXFVuT2ryujx4R-g6QCkG5LQeOskjD1prqUOmPjMYQOtGck0rUA07Xad93ziTZOykvYbHhmWhCE33sb3MaCyvbkYI5D6dkSYZ7E-hk_K1btZhKwq7pvbSD-k/s1600/nd.40839.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgteISLfH-TeUkFlKNZuSpJXFVuT2ryujx4R-g6QCkG5LQeOskjD1prqUOmPjMYQOtGck0rUA07Xad93ziTZOykvYbHhmWhCE33sb3MaCyvbkYI5D6dkSYZ7E-hk_K1btZhKwq7pvbSD-k/s200/nd.40839.jpg" width="136" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Just as ‘one swallow does not a summer
make’, so the release of two galbanum+incense fragrances in 2016 does not
signal a new trend. If it did though, I wouldn’t be complaining. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Where Tom Ford’s Vert d’Encens plays on the
balsamic elements of galbanum more to an oriental effect, Zoologist’s Macaque
goes fruity-floral with apple and some banana-ey ylang. Tucked in amongst the
foliage is a green tea base (Givco?) that does well not to overwhelm the blend
and, on skin in particular, I find the fond to develop a nice mossiness beside
the wood and musks. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Another pleasant surprise from this house.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Ps. When are the marine animals coming?<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">House: Zoologist<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Nose: Sarah McCartney<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Release date: 2016</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Notes (per Fragrantica): cedar, green
apple, blood mandarin, olibanum, galbanum, honey, palisander rosewood, ylang, jasmine
tea, cedarmoss, green tea, white oud, musk.</span></div>
Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06337130794193959645noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6395379955627405678.post-16584741058827807052017-03-12T07:09:00.002-07:002017-03-12T07:09:45.641-07:00Beaver Review<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicTxg8gmUxkPQhDBoGhqKAqA4QZbRxKeV1KJo-_ewm9Pjx5Q92qsQ1qKF9lUV0SWUrj4-fBw5FkZmLtEjz0Tgq4q-aQJLEzxCeKXkSmG5x5cDCmytipGMGAgMZNvs-mRYKvCL_cNpSlQM/s1600/nd.28189.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicTxg8gmUxkPQhDBoGhqKAqA4QZbRxKeV1KJo-_ewm9Pjx5Q92qsQ1qKF9lUV0SWUrj4-fBw5FkZmLtEjz0Tgq4q-aQJLEzxCeKXkSmG5x5cDCmytipGMGAgMZNvs-mRYKvCL_cNpSlQM/s200/nd.28189.jpg" width="143" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">By the time a UK distributor was found for
Zoologist perfumes earlier this year, Beaver (one of the house’s first releases
back in 2014) had already been reformulated. Director Victor Wong has, to his
credit, made frank admission of the change; spoken openly about poor sales of
the original; and, so long as concentrate of the latter remained, offered
customers the option to purchase either it or the new iteration. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Beaver 2.0 is a surprisingly green, citrus-floral
affair, its fresh linden (a.k.a. lime) blossom theme painted with aldehydic and
ozonic flourishes. Underneath is a very elegent and complex-smelling blend of
musks, light cedar-type woods and just a hint of something dark. I understand
the original went for a much bolder leather/castoreum base and can imagine a
stronger clean/animalic contrast working well in this composition. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Nose: Chris Bartlett<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">House: Zoologist<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Release date: 2014 (original)</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Notes (per Fragrantica): linden blossom,
fresh air, light citrus, castoreum, iris, vanilla, smoke, undergrowth, animal
musks, ash, cedar, amber.</span></div>
Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06337130794193959645noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6395379955627405678.post-28861604362433150582017-02-26T11:37:00.000-08:002017-02-26T11:40:07.328-08:00Persil Biological Laundry Detergent Review<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrFi66zEe8iAZjjQgeVI3RHgKdAz5UR2iXk82cfVqxxs5XW7W1NUaw66xCe1spplcokT_BRNYf9OFq36ghq48QHw4O0iO_WJwMP9GAtoZVtMab4beFEBfJa59P1dVB-nm6pFN_k2ookTU/s1600/Unknown.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrFi66zEe8iAZjjQgeVI3RHgKdAz5UR2iXk82cfVqxxs5XW7W1NUaw66xCe1spplcokT_BRNYf9OFq36ghq48QHw4O0iO_WJwMP9GAtoZVtMab4beFEBfJa59P1dVB-nm6pFN_k2ookTU/s200/Unknown.jpeg" width="200" /></a></div>
<div style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; line-height: normal;">
<br /></div>
<div style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Jean-Claude Ellena likes to tell the story of the time he was turned away at Edmond Roudnitska’s doorstep because his clothes smelt too strongly of washing detergent. </span><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">As a non-perfumer, I’m happily free from any such constraints and can enjoy the daily ritual of putting on a freshly laundered shirt and taking a deep breath as my body heat warms the fabric.</span><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> </span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Granted, many laundry care products these days are obnoxiously strong and with the advent of scent boosters like Lenor’s massively successful Unstoppables, only getting more obtrusive. </span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Persil’s green-capped liquid detergent however, bucks the trend and smells fantastic: fresh and green with a big dose of very incense-like aldehydes (my favourite part). The scent lasts well on laundered items yet is subtle enough not to clash with the perfumes I wear. The biological formula is effective, too. </span></div>
Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06337130794193959645noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6395379955627405678.post-51375945068703679052017-02-25T07:41:00.001-08:002017-02-25T07:41:59.375-08:00Bat Review<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhFzdHAHmknA9F4SBMR8ynPeFMRUZhF292v5ztG5ySXNFsXsowstF8x2JsNGlgnVGaGt-tKJsZgdx3JbSj3tz6fpBewmoHf3vMFGUr9JOjROKBDjM_wCfaPhbacryLgRUEbZuOgM6BGF4/s1600/nd.34606.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhFzdHAHmknA9F4SBMR8ynPeFMRUZhF292v5ztG5ySXNFsXsowstF8x2JsNGlgnVGaGt-tKJsZgdx3JbSj3tz6fpBewmoHf3vMFGUr9JOjROKBDjM_wCfaPhbacryLgRUEbZuOgM6BGF4/s200/nd.34606.jpg" width="143" /></a></div>
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<div style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">There’s so much Geosmin in Bat that wearing it feels like your perfume is trying to waterboard you. Heavy, humid notes of damp earth catch in your throat and oppress the smell of green banana and berries. Only in the late drydown phase does this feel integrated with a rich smelling base of strong, even a shade steroidal blond wood, resiny spiciness and a wet, Cashmeran like muskiness. </span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It’s a very thoughtfully considered response to a brief, but for portability’s sake, I would prefer to see the levels adjusted. </span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal; min-height: 14px; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Nose: Ellen Covey</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">House: Zoologist</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Release date: 2016</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Notes (per Fragrantica): banana, fruity notes, soil tincture, fig, tropical fruits, myrrh, resins, green notes, musk, leather, vetiver, sandalwood, tonka bean. </span></span></div>
Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06337130794193959645noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6395379955627405678.post-84005736740621233752017-02-17T06:59:00.000-08:002017-02-17T06:59:00.265-08:00Panda Review<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-7EhA_6KH1h-hQrx4BneK3ovZ-KY_4ZBRPPy9NeFGE-KYf6Ysabf5qVep5QMZF4WFOOen09Ued1WbEn7EffrhPa3k_bgi77zx6k86Wa-gMrpGnA8yqAhy59Te9C8CyDlnVkV9Vqwy3HI/s1600/nd.28190.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-7EhA_6KH1h-hQrx4BneK3ovZ-KY_4ZBRPPy9NeFGE-KYf6Ysabf5qVep5QMZF4WFOOen09Ued1WbEn7EffrhPa3k_bgi77zx6k86Wa-gMrpGnA8yqAhy59Te9C8CyDlnVkV9Vqwy3HI/s200/nd.28190.jpg" width="143" /></a></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It’s been said there are three basic types
of green notes in perfumery: (1) galbanum greens (including spicy greens); (2)
violet leaf greens (including ivy and fig greens); and (3) cut-grass,
hexanol/hexanyl greens (including fruity greens). Locating Panda within this
triangle is not entirely straightforward, though it pulls more towards corners
1 and 3 than 2. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Panda’s overall theme then is fresh,
cyclamen-aldehyde like verdancy; powerful, slightly metallic greenery over a fruity-floral
heart of lily-of-the-valley and orange blossom with concord grape and melon
nuances and a very subtle, sichuan pepper contrast. The effect comes somewhat
at the expense of naturalness of feel and come the late drydown of pale woods
and musks, the scent remains close to the skin. This however, is in line with
expectations given the fragrance’s (presumed) objective. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Nose: Paul Kiler<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">House: Zoologist<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Release date: 2014</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Notes (per Fragrantica): buddha’s hand
citron, bamboo, Sichuan pepper, green tea, mandarin Zisu leaves, osmanthus,
orange blossom, lilies, mimosa, incense, sandalwood, pemou root, cedar, fresh
musk, bourbon and haitian vetiver, damp moss.</span></div>
Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06337130794193959645noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6395379955627405678.post-78954861608223715732017-02-12T02:01:00.002-08:002017-02-12T09:51:49.902-08:00Rhinoceros Review<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmfjqcpj4UZbf3HjM4wmwlx-XE54wgRzldMUu7WEb5jNv8Z2T83-qcdtrMTE0ZI6C020naPEpGWZ1UQYrnxqGZrGwU5jXJAIqGuNTs8Jcb3A0Y29cbIfdWGh8aHhQ65UuU09zhb8EyJ-I/s1600/nd.28191.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmfjqcpj4UZbf3HjM4wmwlx-XE54wgRzldMUu7WEb5jNv8Z2T83-qcdtrMTE0ZI6C020naPEpGWZ1UQYrnxqGZrGwU5jXJAIqGuNTs8Jcb3A0Y29cbIfdWGh8aHhQ65UuU09zhb8EyJ-I/s200/nd.28191.jpg" width="143" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">A boozy scent that’s as big and boisterous
as its namesake, Rhinoceros announces its presence with an arrestingly terpy
opening of elemi whose lemon-citrus notes dovetail with bergamot and a herbal
accord of lavender/sage/armoise. Detectable even in the top is the elaborate
blend of nearly a dozen different musks (c.15%) and this complexity is further
expressed with one of the most convincing liquor notes I’ve come across. The
official pyramid lists rum, but to me the richly textured accord - alcoholic,
woody, leathery, smoky – reads closer to whisky, at least initially. As
the perfume dries down, the dried-fruit facets of the oakwood extract do become
clearer, as does a honeyed sweetness that links to deep, woody amber fond. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Colour me impressed!<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Nose: Paul Kiler<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">House: Zoologist<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Release date: 2015</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Notes (per Fragrantica): rum, bergamot,
lavender, elemi, sage, pine needles, artemesia, tobacco, oud, immortelle,
geranium, cedar, vetiver, sandalwood, amber, leather, musks.</span></div>
Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06337130794193959645noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6395379955627405678.post-59309701432013663542017-02-07T11:10:00.000-08:002017-02-07T11:10:10.034-08:00Figue en Fleur Review<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizCzKbjrcyFGuBcxcoMxBy1l8QRRHAvDLTu_VQLYoZCHHcH0gaxj-ROSFAd72iqfoWTceIvcsZmX_KIDI5AGybxSkcL04KD5e15XMZfVwPvXCT3BbdzGmh3B0cdQQwJyEpMLmxj29UGW4/s1600/nd.33888.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizCzKbjrcyFGuBcxcoMxBy1l8QRRHAvDLTu_VQLYoZCHHcH0gaxj-ROSFAd72iqfoWTceIvcsZmX_KIDI5AGybxSkcL04KD5e15XMZfVwPvXCT3BbdzGmh3B0cdQQwJyEpMLmxj29UGW4/s200/nd.33888.jpg" width="133" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A straight fig fragrance (meaning sundry Stemone type green notes over coconut lactones and a sweet coumarin/tonka, musky base) of no particular merit or distinction. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Nose: unknown</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">House: Andrée Putman</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Release date: 2015</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Notes (per Fragrantica): fig leaf, fig tree, rose, tonka, almond, sandalwood.</span></div>
Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06337130794193959645noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6395379955627405678.post-64411466668633735172017-02-02T11:01:00.001-08:002017-02-02T11:02:02.946-08:00Je Suis un Homme Review<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCyXy0vD0dNm768ijs3NaJBdhTt8rCUBpGGvW3eI8Fal9Oue0n1nwtaPRs6Emy8f5NgGueMd4DM_-ac7t2CLFNp1T7Nj-yWDx425Y9ep7WmISngwdiupi3qnr6NeQJJ3POfxNWPokhT6A/s1600/nd.4519.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCyXy0vD0dNm768ijs3NaJBdhTt8rCUBpGGvW3eI8Fal9Oue0n1nwtaPRs6Emy8f5NgGueMd4DM_-ac7t2CLFNp1T7Nj-yWDx425Y9ep7WmISngwdiupi3qnr6NeQJJ3POfxNWPokhT6A/s200/nd.4519.jpg" width="183" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Je Suis un Homme is a take on the masculine herbal-citrus genre, aspiring to such classics as Guerlain’s Derby. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">From under the toppy citrus notes develops a dry herbal accord that has a lightly burnt quality. Patchouli, labdanum and musks meanwhile, make up the fond.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Technically accomplished but not wildly exciting. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Nose: Antoine Lie</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">House: Etat Libre d’Orange</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Release date: 2006</span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'helvetica neue', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Notes (per Fragrantica): bergamot, orange, lemon, myrtle, clove, cognac, leather, patchouli, animal notes.</span></div>
Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06337130794193959645noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6395379955627405678.post-22355789034089309782017-01-28T03:54:00.000-08:002017-01-28T04:59:22.054-08:00Semiotic Spritz Part 9: Penhaligon's Portraits: From Pen's to Le Pen<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEiGcMZgY6yrf4QdlRK0fwLz8h1_cSjitGGBY27fp-o3gaeX3BPpOmONkXI-17UAybvK6Z3Z-s9-zAd2mooOL7RrkvnMU-C0BI8pTRRBDHB2rChu61t-PvLgl41SGtTpjPiD14mlmtNUM/s1600/Unknown.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEiGcMZgY6yrf4QdlRK0fwLz8h1_cSjitGGBY27fp-o3gaeX3BPpOmONkXI-17UAybvK6Z3Z-s9-zAd2mooOL7RrkvnMU-C0BI8pTRRBDHB2rChu61t-PvLgl41SGtTpjPiD14mlmtNUM/s200/Unknown.jpeg" width="160" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">It’s winter 2016/17: Britain is negotiating its exit from the EU; Trump has been elected President of the USA; and Penhaligon’s has just released its ‘Portrait Series’ – a set of six fragrances inspired by the ‘British aristocracy’. Housed in eye-catching bottles each topped with a gold, hunting-trophy head, they carry names such as 'The Tragedy of Lord George' and 'The Coveted Duchess Rose'. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">In another age, it might have been the price that was cause for comment: £178 for 75mL is, as they say, ‘aspirational’. But we’re largely inured now to sticker shock, hardened by the likes of Roja Dove, Xerjoff and Henry Jacques. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Instead, what’s noteworthy about this line is how far it departs, designwise, from Penhaligon’s standard and how well this resonates with the prevailing ‘populist’ (nationalist-xenophobic, really) mood that is currently sweeping much of Europe and North America.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Just like the Portrait series, which is said to represent the ‘English spirit’, right-wing populism employs a nativist rhetoric, favouring monoculturalism over pluralistic cosmpolitanism. And just as the copywriter for Penhaligon’s campaign freely interchanges British with English, populist narratives aren’t too concerned with the granular. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMp45gtFzUJCxWDhXuTlsjpv1yPhYBJI0F_KPwqWnRSdyhYhNXshBbZr6yyY3kEXwvOL_5lY8PaDHWzhC9d6TJ_2ZOMm0sZtfr2YbniFT5CFOk5GVTCKAFo14w9TvRH4Wblp7herbtyFg/s1600/Unknown.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMp45gtFzUJCxWDhXuTlsjpv1yPhYBJI0F_KPwqWnRSdyhYhNXshBbZr6yyY3kEXwvOL_5lY8PaDHWzhC9d6TJ_2ZOMm0sZtfr2YbniFT5CFOk5GVTCKAFo14w9TvRH4Wblp7herbtyFg/s1600/Unknown.png" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDuXkEtiujNPOVjbE0pS5u43UPrpBAZ_MrUAA9IUqohlWCU6QeH1DmX0WsrBdrePZtjLaAayn3VATNbOrABc4JudadF_oovtz-WfjddsW4a-joRV7EbLd01ArjkUrwiSw8JyuM7r1Uu_g/s1600/images.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDuXkEtiujNPOVjbE0pS5u43UPrpBAZ_MrUAA9IUqohlWCU6QeH1DmX0WsrBdrePZtjLaAayn3VATNbOrABc4JudadF_oovtz-WfjddsW4a-joRV7EbLd01ArjkUrwiSw8JyuM7r1Uu_g/s200/images.jpeg" width="134" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">They, the authors of populist propaganda, are constantly making appeals to a mythical, ‘pure’ past; a time before mass immigration, a time, in fact, very much like the one represented by the Portraits who are all reassuringly Anglo-Saxon. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Where Penhaligon’s have previously looked beyond the shores of our tiny islands, finding inspiration in Egypt (Oud de Nil, 2016) and Iraq (Ninevah, 2015), the Anglocentrism of the new range is easily read as reflecting the inward focus of nationalist ideology. And if this seems like a stretch, consider that the next release from Pen’s is ‘Savoy Steam’ – an homage to London’s old Savoy steam baths. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">As a counter-reaction to the creeping liberalism of the past fifty years, this political movement represented by Farage, Le Pen, Wilders et al. argues for a turning away from Post-materialist values and an embracing of ‘traditional’ ones. And who better to represent English/British traditionalism than its nobility whose singular distinction is its vast material capital?<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Whether this strategy by Penhaligon’s pays off remains to be seen. Whilst capturing the Zeitgeist, the marketing campaign appears targeted at an affluent, youthful sector whose first encounter with Fitzgerald was likely Baz Luhrmann’s successful adaptation of Gatsby in 2013. It is precisely this demographic who, studies show, are<i> least</i> likely to vote for Trump and Brexit and therefore identify with the line. </span></span><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">One thing we can be certain of though, is that Sales will be keeping a very close eye on the figures, praying the effort doesn’t backfire as it did in the case of the gloriously misjudged </span><i style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Tralala</i><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> (2014), which is now, unsurprisingly, discontinued. </span></div>
<!--EndFragment-->Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06337130794193959645noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6395379955627405678.post-37210993657205848972017-01-22T06:26:00.000-08:002017-01-22T06:26:55.040-08:00Noël au Balcon Review<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Na7EqZDn7F6iMcaExjw5hHfe1SphJmZ-FV9vZj6ug0Q7QjEpBcwT7yRWnC-wAyJ_mOX7eXIyn8AAXOU_hCEtF-GwMfeWSvmS7WeI5oxDGnxHzNVRJwJTJWViPB1sfTCZZWscUuufpd8/s1600/o.2195.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Na7EqZDn7F6iMcaExjw5hHfe1SphJmZ-FV9vZj6ug0Q7QjEpBcwT7yRWnC-wAyJ_mOX7eXIyn8AAXOU_hCEtF-GwMfeWSvmS7WeI5oxDGnxHzNVRJwJTJWViPB1sfTCZZWscUuufpd8/s200/o.2195.jpg" width="128" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">From an orange blossomy opening that has a
pronounced, metallic-green aldehydic facet, Noël au Balcon quickly turns into a
near dupe of L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Tea for Two (Olivia Giacobetti, 2000) – all
transparent honey, cinnamic spices and amber offset by some bitter, black
tea-like nuances.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Nose: Antoine Maisondieu<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">House: Etat Libre d’Orange<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Release date: 2007</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Notes (per Fragrantica): honey, apricot,
mandarin, orange blossom, cinnamon, chilli pepper, patchouli, musk, vanilla,
black clover, labdanum, caraway.</span></div>
Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06337130794193959645noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6395379955627405678.post-20670890435304897052017-01-15T08:13:00.001-08:002017-01-15T08:14:47.987-08:00Gucci Eau de Parfum Review<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja16kFYnKD191codDsJiJ6pX2m3K9HfnLTPchCKgoaOE2Xxkogng6p1fGtJ94wL_tbiFm7VjucMntbl9bVp4aaMMqCgLucdV5Q1R5ecnMau3RXSqoNhhjFX4N47kEpT6W7lr2F56QHZoI/s1600/nd.684.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja16kFYnKD191codDsJiJ6pX2m3K9HfnLTPchCKgoaOE2Xxkogng6p1fGtJ94wL_tbiFm7VjucMntbl9bVp4aaMMqCgLucdV5Q1R5ecnMau3RXSqoNhhjFX4N47kEpT6W7lr2F56QHZoI/s200/nd.684.jpg" width="181" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">A white floriental from the Tom Ford era,
Gucci’s eponymous EdP segues imperceptibly from orange blossom to almost
tuberose with wintergreen salicylate and tart green apple inflections before
settling into a long-lasting powdery, sweet oriental base. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The opening is marked by a cuminic contrast
that I find myself wishing would hold out longer against a certain aldehydic
soapiness. The dirty/clean dialogue however, is engaging and Daniela Andrier’s
composition is a standout in both Gucci’s and her back catalogue.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Nose: Daniela Andrier<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">House: Gucci<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Release date: 2002 <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(discontinued)</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Notes (per Fragrantica): orange blossom,
heliotrope, caraway, iris, thyme, incense, leather, sandalwood, musk, vanilla,
cedar.</span></div>
Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06337130794193959645noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6395379955627405678.post-86071458131318723792017-01-07T06:20:00.000-08:002017-01-23T07:37:38.730-08:00Semiotic Spritz Part 8: Kenzo World: Just Another Man(t)ic Monday<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/ABz2m0olmPg/0.jpg" frameborder="0" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ABz2m0olmPg?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">One of the most talked about fragrance
campaigns of 2016 was by the Framework agency for Kenzo’s World. Directed by
Spike Jonze and featuring an all acting, all dancing Margaret Qualley, the
highly engaging spot drew praise and quizzical looks in seemingly equal
measures.</span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">As noted by Richard Vine in his piece for
The Guardian (21/08/2016 <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2016/aug/31/spike-jonze-gets-freaky-for-kenzo-where-film-meets-beauty">link</a>), Jonze’s film is but the latest example of a collaboration between
an indie director and a fine fragrance house: David Lynch and Sofia Coppola
having previously shot for Dior; Wes Anderson for Prada. At just shy of four
minutes in length, the advert moves apace thanks to the frenetic,
dancehall-inspired track by Ape Drums and Sam Spiegel (who just so happens to
be Jonze’s brother) which accompanies it.</span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">For all its vaunted rejection of the
clichés associated with perfume adverts, Kenzo World’s narrative draws on one
of the most enduring and widespread messages targeted at women: liberation.
From junk food to high fashion, females are over and again sold a fantasy of freedom
and escape which assumes the form of a moral imperative. </span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The short film opens with a scene from a black
tie gala event. Seated at a table adorned with bright pink flowers representing
a stereotyped image of femininity is Qualley, her youth and emerald green dress
conspicuous in the stiff, formal surrounds. From the unseen stage drones, Peanuts-style, a man’s incomprehensible speech.</span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">With a feigned smile, Qualley excuses
herself and walks dejected and pensive from the hall through the wide, empty spaces
of the Los Angeles Music Centre’s Dorothy Chandler pavilion. Rubbing her neck
in a classic self-touch gesture that’s long been a staple of perfume
advertising, Qualley’s eyes suddenly focus and come alive. Then, like someone
possessed of an outside force, her pupils begin to dart rhythmically, her face
contorts and her limbs flail uncontrollably. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgedeRsuxAZuIxMSgVoTyJ0kuncpapSY0duAYXmm-n_IJOPg7kMihvQnx8VkTFQZ1qtC1CDZ0aXsITJqzaqSUk_uVJq3Z2iUyLdOIm-IxBtBwHV2FhmLfc7dkYHdG9kENHCfDO80ZF9D88/s1600/Screen+Shot+2017-01-07+at+13.51.09.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="111" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgedeRsuxAZuIxMSgVoTyJ0kuncpapSY0duAYXmm-n_IJOPg7kMihvQnx8VkTFQZ1qtC1CDZ0aXsITJqzaqSUk_uVJq3Z2iUyLdOIm-IxBtBwHV2FhmLfc7dkYHdG9kENHCfDO80ZF9D88/s200/Screen+Shot+2017-01-07+at+13.51.09.png" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9z9ULttwnypO1sBGsDnYT4fkbereAFJXfhAWQmiWfWQz8qm_boKcvmn8wBNICwxA883JBhBQMAAi4g_xaR_nS9NFhcJO_WSV7KF33p8x7Eu0CvmnDpFTFpo0ug5Ph1yiGODcz0TWGDNk/s1600/Screen+Shot+2017-01-07+at+13.51.00.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="132" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9z9ULttwnypO1sBGsDnYT4fkbereAFJXfhAWQmiWfWQz8qm_boKcvmn8wBNICwxA883JBhBQMAAi4g_xaR_nS9NFhcJO_WSV7KF33p8x7Eu0CvmnDpFTFpo0ug5Ph1yiGODcz0TWGDNk/s200/Screen+Shot+2017-01-07+at+13.51.00.png" width="200" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><o:p><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">(Qualley vs. Walken)</span></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Reprising the role of Christopher Walken in
Fatboy Slim’s Weapon of Choice video (also directed by Jonze), Qualley proceeds
to dance her way energetically up the mirrored staircases, through the
mezzanine levels and onto the stage in an empty auditorium. Her movements,
choreographed by Ryan Heffington, reference everything from pre-war Vaudeville
steps through Star Wars, Fifth Element and Black Swan. With each lunge and arcing
high kick, Qualley’s power increases till it assumes a supernatural dimension.
A lone, unsuspecting man on his telephone is thus felled Matrix-style while the
walls are pock-marked by laser shots fired from her fingers. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyo-hn2-gjmyPPGUUBP2Kf_FN5zZHYPf_BJOTQBhOH2z-aKIIKProZCqQGL3emSfDH2KXB0-Zes7BV-K3f5jnSgerCgLdiSsdxL4FTwg9GvJvfpJ-KcX1kNHnTr6pOZKzUujsmXKu4GOc/s1600/Screen+Shot+2017-01-07+at+13.42.53.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="103" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyo-hn2-gjmyPPGUUBP2Kf_FN5zZHYPf_BJOTQBhOH2z-aKIIKProZCqQGL3emSfDH2KXB0-Zes7BV-K3f5jnSgerCgLdiSsdxL4FTwg9GvJvfpJ-KcX1kNHnTr6pOZKzUujsmXKu4GOc/s200/Screen+Shot+2017-01-07+at+13.42.53.png" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigv50ZWV0eZ6rqs_baWTCSNv8CTUO5EEcXmd-hJNzk7dZ5agJy_81tgjSzn-NPUAIGIBjrbYQWs_vb32LKZRACkkLV5Iw-X_TTQNhIQ0tuW9hyOvPNqvczkoTT8s1B9Ro0dSWm-BWDDYU/s1600/Screen+Shot+2017-01-07+at+13.44.22.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="102" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigv50ZWV0eZ6rqs_baWTCSNv8CTUO5EEcXmd-hJNzk7dZ5agJy_81tgjSzn-NPUAIGIBjrbYQWs_vb32LKZRACkkLV5Iw-X_TTQNhIQ0tuW9hyOvPNqvczkoTT8s1B9Ro0dSWm-BWDDYU/s200/Screen+Shot+2017-01-07+at+13.44.22.png" width="200" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"> <span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">(like a boy ft. Qualley, Ciara)</span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Bursting forth from the building, Qualley <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">grand jeté</i>s across a deserted courtyard,
clearing invisible hurdles till at last she arrives before a giant, floating
eye composed of flowers. With arms raised in reverence, she experiences a final
throw of ecstasy before launching herself head-first through the ocular icon,
landing in a starter’s block position amid a shower of blossoms that are most
definitely <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">not</i> pink. Spent, Qualley
yet rises again, beating her chest to the thump of a snare.</span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The all-seeing eye motif, captured too by
the perfume’s flacon, was a major imprint of Kenzo’s 2013 fall-winter
collection and, according to the brand’s art directors Humberto Leon and Carol
Lim “alludes to the force of the third eye and to spiritual protection from
above”. Before this supernatural symbol, Qualley figures as a modern day πύϑια
– those high priestesses in the temple of Apollo at Delphi consulted as
oracles. Like her, the Pythia too 'raved' in apparent trance (at least according to some accounts), the exertion leaving them ‘like a runner after a race or a dancer after an ecstatic
dance’. And like the priests who were charged with translating the Oracles’ enigmatic
prophesies, we the audience must struggle to decode Qualley’s message. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhie9YYvUnXIcbhjo1Cccy1y4UzdMi0F-3vLooU_1KqP9L8alITVfCLQjMP93irjSIP1j7glgmBbN7SrjOIJ7VVlroNJc9z74VDwdOMjuWVhuBvQGyABj0AUdqs1eOo0R8V1n9vBPP0J1U/s1600/Screen+Shot+2017-01-07+at+14.05.43.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="163" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhie9YYvUnXIcbhjo1Cccy1y4UzdMi0F-3vLooU_1KqP9L8alITVfCLQjMP93irjSIP1j7glgmBbN7SrjOIJ7VVlroNJc9z74VDwdOMjuWVhuBvQGyABj0AUdqs1eOo0R8V1n9vBPP0J1U/s320/Screen+Shot+2017-01-07+at+14.05.43.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">As arguably the most powerful female
figures in the classical Greek world, the Pythia provide a compelling model of strength
and sagacity. This image of femininity targeted at a culturally literate group
is far removed from the typical presentations found in perfume advertising (cf.
<a href="http://lemouchoirparfume.blogspot.co.uk/search/label/Paco%20Rabanne%27s%20Olymp%C3%A9a">Paco Rabanne’s Olympéa</a>) while also avoiding the #GirlBoss banality to which
pop-feminism has been reduced.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">On the face of it then, Kenzo World launched with a successful campaign. 2016 Q4 sales reports however, will ultimately tell if the big advertising budget
was worth it for a so-so smelling fragrance (Francis Kurkdjian) that has
comparably limited distribution.</span></div>
Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06337130794193959645noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6395379955627405678.post-27571934492160239152016-12-24T03:19:00.001-08:002016-12-24T10:25:12.495-08:00Cierge de Lune Review<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQxONsvYTbKQa3bUjr5Tsla7pMZ3eW01ETqyG9XCFIXQAG0zbGJ3oa8alIU72vEqRFpIoeuyyySy1bHr3FeD0O4TW8wg4NNTljaxHsQSsqz3tOeW3hU1SRQoQjAGxPOseCveZp_esPBBc/s1600/Unknown.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQxONsvYTbKQa3bUjr5Tsla7pMZ3eW01ETqyG9XCFIXQAG0zbGJ3oa8alIU72vEqRFpIoeuyyySy1bHr3FeD0O4TW8wg4NNTljaxHsQSsqz3tOeW3hU1SRQoQjAGxPOseCveZp_esPBBc/s200/Unknown.jpeg" width="144" /></a></div>
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<div style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The name Cierge de Lune, lit. ‘moon’s candle’ is a calque on Latin Selenicereus, a genus of night-blooming cactus whose species include the spectacular grandiflorus. A vine-like climber native to Mexico, central America and the Antilles, this ‘Queen of the Night’ is famed as much for its brilliant white flowers that are rayed with golden petals as the warm, rich, moth-attracting scent it emits. </span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">An analysis of the plant’s perfume was undertaken by Headspace guru Roman Kaiser, together with Lars Tollsten and the results published in an article entitled ‘An Introduction to the Scent of Cacti’ (Fragrance and Flavour Journal, 1995, vol.10 pp.153-164). According to the authors, the smell of Selenicereus grandiflorus is dominated by vanilla and cocoa notes, arising predominantly from vanillin (0.2%) and a series of isovalerates, in particular benzyl isovalerate (55%). Ionones (alpha=0.3%; beta=0.1%; dihydro-beta =0.4%), together with high amounts of farnesal (23%) and farnesol meanwhile, contribute important floral and fruity notes. </span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Needless to say, Fabrice Pellegrin’s composition is not intended to be a reconstruction of the Headspace, but a free interpretation. For this, he has integrated the vanillic theme into something approaching Grojsman’s accord of Hedione, Iso E Super, ionones and clean musks to produce a monolithic, powdery-sweet ‘hug me’ effect. The fruitiness detected in the plant’s odour is here perhaps interpreted through a cherry/heliotrope note while the woody notes are elaborated with Ambrox(an) etc. </span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">It’s something different for Aedes’ line, but not as interesting as the others. </span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal; min-height: 14px; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Nose: Fabrice Pellegrin</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">House: Aedes de Venustas</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Release date: 2016</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Notes (per Fragrantica): musk, powdery notes, madagascar vanilla, ylang-ylang, black and pink pepper, hedione, suede, incense, amber, ambroxan.</span></div>
Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06337130794193959645noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6395379955627405678.post-75319102960443566462016-12-18T05:25:00.001-08:002016-12-18T05:25:18.774-08:00Tom of Finland Review<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzRqHrlbiC52xOJHij4OGfs7-8_EEr_CpW-JIIu8EOO8ouadxp15YPh51vPzhL6BFfarKWRYASitP_xA9isfDtiT66td7cktphzod9-mvON8VlDPSWd3K1ERp44q9qks-ZGdWocGmNWSo/s1600/Unknown.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzRqHrlbiC52xOJHij4OGfs7-8_EEr_CpW-JIIu8EOO8ouadxp15YPh51vPzhL6BFfarKWRYASitP_xA9isfDtiT66td7cktphzod9-mvON8VlDPSWd3K1ERp44q9qks-ZGdWocGmNWSo/s200/Unknown.jpeg" width="160" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">An homage to the Finnish artist Touko Laaksonen famed for his homoerotic depictions of butch men clad in fetishwear, Tom of Finland is billed as ‘the true erotic power of flesh and a leather jacket’. </span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Given the description, the scent is surprisingly tame, a classic citrus+vetiver pairing doing well to cover some of the less-attractive, hot pleather characteristics of Safraleine. With additional woodsy and green notes, the composition is more apt to suggest a northern European forest than anything especially human, unless the muscular, monster-cock jerking subjects of ‘Tom’s’ drawings are to be imagined as having a sweet, tonka-vanilla-oriental odour captured by the perfume’s drydown. </span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal; min-height: 14px; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Nose: Antoine Lie</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">House: Etat Libre d’Orange</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Release date: 2007</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Notes (per Fragrantica): aldehyde, lemon, birch leaves, pine, pepper, cyprus, galbanum, geranium, vanilla, tonka bean, iris, vetiver, pyrogenated styrax, suede, musk, grey amber. </span></span></div>
Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06337130794193959645noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6395379955627405678.post-80736981270652054892016-12-04T05:47:00.000-08:002016-12-04T05:47:17.313-08:00Archives 69 Review<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvCSpB8TEoQWR8j8YiY04PAlRnhyK4MMqHngDn0LveWZm9DPqAEcZS98lnEMc4wYpuSe5g7s6OJZZAkQzcR5TzBqq7iRRXZa0CHhVeqUaYOXGn0uSABXx1qkvCB-aB6DYSeOWHxBeboIc/s1600/Unknown.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvCSpB8TEoQWR8j8YiY04PAlRnhyK4MMqHngDn0LveWZm9DPqAEcZS98lnEMc4wYpuSe5g7s6OJZZAkQzcR5TzBqq7iRRXZa0CHhVeqUaYOXGn0uSABXx1qkvCB-aB6DYSeOWHxBeboIc/s200/Unknown.jpeg" width="139" /></a></div>
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<div style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Named after ELd’O’s Paris address, Archives 69 is a very imaginative take on the ‘fruitchouli’ genre and was composed by Christine Nagel while she still worked at Mane. </span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The basic theme has a sweet, over-ripe fruit character and a cool, medicinal vibe of camphorous, salicylatey and slightly phenolic notes together with incense. Spices meanwhile, bring a warming contrast and since this is a Nagel perfume, it is no surprise to find the accent firmly on pink pepper (cf. e.g. Lalique White where she used a massive 4%) with clove/eugenol just about perceptible. </span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As odd as it sounds, but still wearable (just). </span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal; min-height: 14px; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Nose: Christine Nagel</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">House: Etat Libre d’Orange</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Release date: 2011</span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Notes (per Fragrantica): mandarine, baie rose CO2, orchid and prune Jungle Essences, incense, camphor, benzoin, patchouli, musk. </span></div>
Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06337130794193959645noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6395379955627405678.post-8162215699381513752016-11-28T11:44:00.000-08:002016-11-28T11:44:29.188-08:00Divin' Enfant Review<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitn3-z3kq9BSNcPmEAsCOTBXYH4bO9C7MWQk1vTJsTzHGPEmn2Vny-QQqDD0dvO545IB_08hUGtowiGIYgsX90-iUgUBRcnYYkltfbRIjTk1AxokBq8EWP8k6utdvsyNILn5Q4wxlWeCo/s1600/Unknown.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitn3-z3kq9BSNcPmEAsCOTBXYH4bO9C7MWQk1vTJsTzHGPEmn2Vny-QQqDD0dvO545IB_08hUGtowiGIYgsX90-iUgUBRcnYYkltfbRIjTk1AxokBq8EWP8k6utdvsyNILn5Q4wxlWeCo/s200/Unknown.jpeg" width="160" /></a></div>
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<div style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Given that the shops have now started to pipe Christmas music over their tinny systems, a review of Divin’ Enfant (named after the French carol) seems timely. </span></div>
<div style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">An orange-blossom fragrance, the musty-powdery, concord-grape smell of methyl anthranilate (which ester is one of the key odiferous components of the oil) is here integrated into a massive, sweet musky base that wouldn’t be out of place in a Jean-Paul Gaultier perfume. A subtle dark, moka coffee note (so described in the official pyramid) meanwhile, adds contrast in the opening. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Nose: Antoine Lie</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">House: Etat Libre d’Orange</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Release date: 2006</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Notes (per Fragrantica): orange-blossom, marshmallow, rose, moka, leather, amber, musk, tobacco. </span></div>
Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06337130794193959645noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6395379955627405678.post-50620166458496734822016-11-22T11:55:00.001-08:002016-11-23T00:14:21.792-08:00The Afternoon of a Faun Review<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3LOxstoSBx2EOmLbEGzW6VBGW89iDsP7YXNILil6yj0RqfqLDCxV63KSnnpz73arnO8VSl8hKiSaFBcM4BXnsKhYppPt8G33JQJBFAQHMIMLKDW3en2V5qta1ZKJeSGZSNH-mdHlCOeo/s1600/nd.15948.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3LOxstoSBx2EOmLbEGzW6VBGW89iDsP7YXNILil6yj0RqfqLDCxV63KSnnpz73arnO8VSl8hKiSaFBcM4BXnsKhYppPt8G33JQJBFAQHMIMLKDW3en2V5qta1ZKJeSGZSNH-mdHlCOeo/s200/nd.15948.jpg" width="137" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Back in 2000, Ralf Schwieger - who was at that time only just starting out in his perfume career, won critical acclaim for his Lipstick Rose creation with another former Roure employee, Frédéric Malle. A perfumed paean to cosmetics, Schwieger offered up a deliciously jammy rose smothered in powdery orris and violet ionones. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">In The Afternoon of a Faun, a little bit of that is carried forward, the fragrance having at its heart a raspberry rose accord sweetened up with iris and a judicious amount of immortelle. A streak of incense glimmers from behind but the real co-star of the production is oakmoss - dark, earthy, musty oakmoss. And not just an Evernyl-type replacer either as was stuffed into his <a href="http://lemouchoirparfume.blogspot.co.uk/2014/09/vanille-insensee-review.html">Vanille Insensée</a> (Atelier Cologne, 2011), but the real stuff. Schwieger has spoken of his childhood growing up near the forest in Westfalen and from the top to the base of The Afternoon of a Faun, his love for woody, mossy green notes is loudly declared.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">If Afternoon of a Faun is IFRA compliant, then what Schwieger has achieved is doubly impressive. Or if, like Creed and some others, ELd’O have simply decided to quietly ignore their recommendations and just follow EU regulations, then they are to be congratulated for taking such a stance. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Nose: Ralf Schwieger</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">House: Etat Libre d’Orange</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Release date: 2012</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Notes (per Fragrantica): bergamot, pepper, cinnamon, incense, immortelle, orris, myrrh, leather, benzoin, jasmine, rose, oakmoss. </span></div>
Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06337130794193959645noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6395379955627405678.post-29091483980327121422016-11-19T12:37:00.001-08:002016-11-20T22:52:28.545-08:00How To Compose A Perfume In Sanskrit<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr6FU1TBjKLRl19I9b-VtUcva5ezLvqeoaOUhCRNmNu-E4IqpNvswWjqH35_4CIDk4pMurUjGX4Cz44PHvQTDOgZRPnqa1rPYYwZB32YEhKwLimAffPsRvARMimBq-1AYkzHvL8eXUTTM/s1600/Screen+Shot+2016-11-19+at+17.21.58.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="175" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr6FU1TBjKLRl19I9b-VtUcva5ezLvqeoaOUhCRNmNu-E4IqpNvswWjqH35_4CIDk4pMurUjGX4Cz44PHvQTDOgZRPnqa1rPYYwZB32YEhKwLimAffPsRvARMimBq-1AYkzHvL8eXUTTM/s400/Screen+Shot+2016-11-19+at+17.21.58.png" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">A folio from the Sanskrit manuscript add.2329 (Cambridge University Library) containing the <i>Bṛhatsaṃhitā</i>.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">As perfumery has grown ever more
sophisticated in its aims and execution, so the fragrance houses have invested
in the development of algorithmic software to aid perfumers and
technicians. But whilst the technology behind this innovation may
be new, the basic thinking is not.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Already in the 6<sup>th</sup> century (CE),
perfumers in India were calculating combinatorics using matrices. One of the earliest
such examples is attested in the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Bṛhatsaṃhitā</i>,
or Great Compendium -<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>a stupendous
Sanskrit work attributed to the Indian astronomer and mathematician
Varāhamihira. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Within its expansive range, which covers everything from house building to prognostication by the appearance of penises
(and the smell of semen) is the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Gandhayukti</i>,
or section on perfume (ch.77). Here we find formulae for such preparations as
hair-waters, flavoured tooth-picks and perfumes carrying evocative names like <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Smaroddīpana</i> ‘kindler of passions’.
Perhaps most interesting though, are the descriptions of a perfume compounding
method by means of a <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">kacchapuṭa</i>
‘grid’, realised physically as a board with indentations in which raw materials
were placed. In a Sudoku-like mathematical play, formulae are derived by
selecting sets of squares that sum a particular value, e.g.18. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">To illustrate, I have translated below
stanzas 77.23-26 which describe one such method. Note not all of the primary
materials can be identified with certainty. Also, as was common in Sanskrit
texts, numbers are sometimes indicated by objects with corresponding numerical
values, e.g. ‘the senses’ = five (there being five senses), ‘the seasons’ = six
(the Indic system counting six seasons) etc. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">dvitrīndriyāṣṭabhāgair
aguruḥ patraṃ turuṣkaśaileyau /<o:p></o:p></span></span></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">viṣayāṣṭapakṣadahanāḥ
priyaṅgumustārasāḥ keśaḥ</span></i><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";"> // 23<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">With two, three, the senses [=five] (or) eight parts (of) agarwood, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">patra</i>, and both olibanum and <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">śaileya</i>,<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The (sense) objects [=five], eight, sides [= two] (or) fires [= three]
(of) <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">priyaṅgu, mustā, rasā, keśa</i>.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">spṛkkātvaktagarāṇāṃ
māṃsyāśca kṛtaikasaptaṣaḍbhāgāḥ /<o:p></o:p></span></span></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">saptaṛttuvedacandrair
malayanakha śrīkakundurukāḥ</span></i><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";"> // 24<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Of <i>spṛkkā</i>, cinnamon, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">tagara</i> and of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">māṃsī</i>, <i>kṛta</i> [name of a particular dice throw = four], one, seven
(or) six parts,<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">With seven, the seasons [=six], the
Vedas [=four], the moon [=one] (of) sandalwood, <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">nakha, śrīka, kunduruka.</i><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">ṣoḍaśake
kacchapuṭe yathā tathā miśrite caturdravye / <o:p></o:p></span></span></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">ye
’trāṣṭādaśa bhāgāste asmin gandhādayo yogāḥ </span></i><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">// 25<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">In a box with sixteen compartments,
when four substances (are put) in a mix, in whichever way (combining
vertically, horizontally, diagonally),<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">there you (get) eighteen parts in (each
of) the perfume compounds and so forth.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">nakhatagaraturuṣkayutā
jātīkarpūramṛgakṛtodbodhāḥ / <o:p></o:p></span></span></i></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">guḍanakhadhūpyā
gandhāḥ kartavyāḥ sarvatobhadrāḥ</span></i><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"> // 26<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Blended with <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">nakha, tagara</i>, olibanum, freshened up with mace, camphor
and deer musk,<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">(the compound) is to be censed with <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">guḍa</i> and unguis odoratis. The perfumes
that are to be made (in this way) are (known as) <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Sarvatobhadra</i>.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Tabulated this information appears so,
with each cell containing a particular material together with its ‘weight’
(i.e. the number of parts thereof to be used in the final formula): <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
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<td style="border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 106.45pt;" valign="top" width="106"><div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">2 </span></b><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Agarwood<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 106.45pt;" valign="top" width="106"><div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">3 </span></b><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">patra<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 106.45pt;" valign="top" width="106"><div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">5 </span></b><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">olibanum<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 106.45pt;" valign="top" width="106"><div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">8 </span></b><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">śaileya</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 1;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 106.45pt;" valign="top" width="106"><div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">5 </span></b><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Arial Unicode MS";">priyaṅgu</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 106.45pt;" valign="top" width="106"><div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">8 </span></b><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">mustā <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 106.45pt;" valign="top" width="106"><div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">2 </span></b><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">rasa<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 106.45pt;" valign="top" width="106"><div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">3 </span></b><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">keśa<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 2;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 106.45pt;" valign="top" width="106"><div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">4 </span></b><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">spṛkkā<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 106.45pt;" valign="top" width="106"><div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">1 </span></b><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">tvak<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 106.45pt;" valign="top" width="106"><div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">7 </span></b><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">tagara<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 106.45pt;" valign="top" width="106"><div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">6 </span></b><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">māṃsī<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 3; mso-yfti-lastrow: yes;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 106.45pt;" valign="top" width="106"><div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">7 </span></b><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Sandalwood<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 106.45pt;" valign="top" width="106"><div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">6 </span></b><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">nakha (<o:p></o:p></span></span><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-align: center;">unguis odoratis)</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 106.45pt;" valign="top" width="106"><div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">4 </span></b><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">śrīka<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; width: 106.45pt;" valign="top" width="106"><div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">1 </span></b><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">kunduruka<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">To compound a fragrance using this method,
the perfumer would select four items along a vertical or horizontal or
diagonal. In each case, the total ‘weight’ is 18. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">E.g. <i>aguru</i> (i.e. agarwood) + <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">patra</i> + olibanum + <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">śaileya</i> = 2+3+5+8 = 18.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Or, sandalwood + <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">tvak + rasa + śaileya</i> = 7+1+2 +8 = 18. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Squares of four cells also sum to 18.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-GB">Referencing the ludic quality of the method, fragrances derived by way of this particular scheme bore the name </span><i><span lang="EN-GB">Sarvatobhadra </span></i></span><span lang="EN-GB"><span style="font-family: "helvetica neue" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">which
means ‘lovely in every way’.</span></span></div>
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