Saturday, 30 August 2014

Mistral Patchouli Review

One to win over the patchophobes, Mistral Patchouli fronts a ‘cœur’-type patchouli oil fractionation that’s high in desired patchoulol. The smell is exceptionally smooth, clean and ambered, with additional musky-floral and cedar nuances.
The bright, lemony-grapefruit top helps pick up some incensey inflections, while a prominent anise note in the head and heart blends well with patchouli’s darker aspects.

Nose: Jérôme Epinette
House: Atelier Cologne
Release date: 2013
Notes (per Fragrantica): star anise, geranium, iris, patchouli.

Saturday, 23 August 2014

Daisy Review

Daisy for Marc Jacobs has at its heart a metallic, green-violet accord constructed around Helional and ionones that’s given a slight nectarine-type fruity accent and rendered transparent with Hedione. This is underscored by an assertive, dry wood and musks base. 
Overall, Daisy smells quite a lot like shampoo. 

Nose: Alberto Morillas
House: Marc Jacobs
Release date: 2007
Notes (per Fragrantica): fruity strawberry notes, violet leaf, pink grapefruit, gardenia, violet, jasmine, white woods,vanilla, musk.

Wednesday, 13 August 2014

Noir Obscur Review

The jammy booziness that dominates the opening of Noir Obscur is very much redolent of Atelier Cologne’s Gold Leather, both having a davana-plum-rum-citrus arrangement in the top. Where the latter lays this green, spice and jam accord over a monotonous, Safraleine-type leather note, Antonio Alessandria’s perfume pursues the stygian aspects to a tenebrous end.
The plum and berries of the opening are here matched with a peachy, osmanthus type note, while a cooling, camphoraceous breeze introduces a base that’s loaded with dusky patchouli, labdanum, styrax, as well an impression of castoreum.
Noir Obscur is a good example of the new, indy perfumery style: dense and muddied, yet ruled by a certain harmony.

Nose: Antonio Alessandria Parfums
House: Antonio Alessandria
Release date: 2014
Notes (per Fragrantica): orange, tangerine, artemisia, rum, spicy notes, bulgarian rose, jasmine, iris, osmanthus, leather, patchouli, vetiver, cedar, incense, amber, musk.

Sunday, 3 August 2014

Aedes de Venustas Signature Review

Aedes de Venustas’ Signature perfume moves from a tart, fruity-green chord built around the rhubarby scent of Gardenol (Styralyl Acetate), through a lightly smoky vetiver and incense base that’s touched by some amber-like sweetness.

Nose: Bertrand Duchaufour
House: Aedes de Venustas
Release date: 2012
Notes (per Fragrantica): rhubarb, vetiver, red berries, tomato leaf, incense, green apple, hazelnut, honeysuckle