Monday, 22 May 2017

Saltus Review

In its primary sense, Latin saltūs m. means ‘jump, leap’ (cf. assault, somersault). It is to the secondary set of developed meanings ‘woodland, uncultivated land’ however, that Shyamala Maisondieu’s composition presumably points.
Uncompromisingly thujonic-terpenic, Saltus opens with a mix of cedar leaves, eucalyptus, camphor and incense. It’s green and sappy but also smells strongly medicinal and, as far as those around you will be concerned, you could as well dab on some tea tree oil.  
That there emerges from underneath the milky tones of ethyl laitone mixed with castoreum will do little to reassure others you’re not trying to treat some weird skin infection. 
A very interesting perfume that’s thoughtfully constructed but not one I’d really ever wish to wear. 

Nose: Shyamala Maisondieu
House: Les Liquides Imaginaires
Release date: 2015
Notes (per Fragrantica): cedar leaves, eucalyptus essence, camphor, styrax, ethyl laitone, patchouli, incense, tonka, castoreum artessence, Australian sandalwood. 

Saturday, 13 May 2017

Tellus Review

From the Latin tellūs f. meaning ‘earth, ground’, Nadège Le Garlantezec’s (Givaudan) composition magnifies patchouli’s earthy facets with the humid, soil-like smell of Geosmin. Beside some sebaceous nuances from costus oil replacer and further woody-spicy notes courtesy of Cashmeran, I find little else of obvious note.
The perfume is substantive and quite linear.

Nose: Nadège Le Garlantezec
House: Les Liquides Imaginaires
Release date: 2015
Notes (per Fragrantica): earth accord, Indonesian patchouli, Cashmeran, lily, costus, mosses, Ambroxan, fir balsam, cistus.