Thursday, 27 November 2014

First Van Cleef & Arpels Review

I doubt if anyone would pick this as a J.-C. Ellena creation, so different is it from the sheer, pared-down style that has become his trademark.
First is an everything-but-the-kitchen-sink type aldehydic green-floral that basically recalls a finely milled French soap. It possesses a remarkable 20% Hedione however, and therefore is fantastically diffusive and bright.
Of course, nowadays 20% is perfectly standard but in 1976 such a level was quite revolutionary. To put things in perspective, Eau Sauvage (1966), in which the molecule débuted, contained less than a tenth that amount.
A very definite perfumey perfume.

Nose: Jean-Claude Ellena
House: Van Cleef & Arpels
Release date: 1976
Notes (per Basenotes): Aldehydes, hyacinth, jasmine, rose, amber, sandalwood.

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