Monday, 2 March 2015

Misia Review

Misia is the first perfume for Chanel signed by Olivier Polge and, if what I was told is correct, will be the last in the ‘Exclusifs’ line.
The fragrance revolves around a central theme of iris and violet, meaning irones/ionones galore. Inevitably, the slightly powdery texture will lead to associations with ladies’ cosmetics; it’s something, in fact, Chanel is positively encouraging. However, as with O. Polge’s Homme (Dior, 2005) which also drew a volley of ‘lipstick / makeup bag’ comparisons, I find the connection only slight.
Misia opens then with a cool, rooty/doughy iris. The record for orris butter content in a Chanel perfume is almost certainly held by 28 La Pausa (a reported 6,6%, per Kraft et al), but Misia feels like it can more than hold its own. There’s a convincing dampness too which is accentuated with a watery, green floral wash of hydroxycitronellal. As the fragrance waxes in coumarin and light amber-type sweetness, so too does the scent of violets and red, iononey raspberries which, in turn, bring out a rosier character in the composition. The process of transformation is wonderfully smooth and the result surprisingly persistent.

Nose: Olivier Polge
House: Chanel
Release date: 2015
Notes (per Fragrantica): violets, iris, rose, benzoin, tonka bean. 


  1. You were given bad information about it being the last of the Exclusive line, with Boy having been added in 2016. The data from your own nose checks out!

  2. Yes; one must always take these tidbits of information from Sales Assistants with a grain of salt.
    Thanks for stopping by to comment.