Misia is the first perfume for Chanel signed by Olivier Polge and, if what I was told is correct, will be the last in the ‘Exclusifs’ line.
The fragrance revolves around a central theme of iris and violet, meaning irones/ionones galore. Inevitably, the slightly powdery texture will lead to associations with ladies’ cosmetics; it’s something, in fact, Chanel is positively encouraging. However, as with O. Polge’s Homme (Dior, 2005) which also drew a volley of ‘lipstick / makeup bag’ comparisons, I find the connection only slight.
Misia opens then with a cool, rooty/doughy iris. The record for orris butter content in a Chanel perfume is almost certainly held by 28 La Pausa (a reported 6,6%, per Kraft et al), but Misia feels like it can more than hold its own. There’s a convincing dampness too which is accentuated with a watery, green floral wash of hydroxycitronellal. As the fragrance waxes in coumarin and light amber-type sweetness, so too does the scent of violets and red, iononey raspberries which, in turn, bring out a rosier character in the composition. The process of transformation is wonderfully smooth and the result surprisingly persistent.
Nose: Olivier Polge
Release date: 2015
Notes (per Fragrantica): violets, iris, rose, benzoin, tonka bean.