Monday, 25 May 2015

Trésor and La Nuit Trésor Review

This year marks the 25th anniversary of Lancôme’s Trésor, coinciding with which is the launch of a new flanker named (rather unimaginatively) La Nuit Trésor. Sophia Grojsman’s towering monument of contemporary perfumery is, of course, no stranger to spin-offs: a quick search on Fragrantica reveals more than 15 members of the Trésor family, created by such noses as Dominique Ropion, Véronique Nyberg and Alienor Massenet. That La Nuit Trésor however (signed by Christophe Raynaud and Amandine Marie), feels quite disconnected to its parent is a shame. It is a testament though, to the enduring weight that the name Trésor carries in the mind of today’s perfume shopper. 
The original fragrance is famously built around a monolithic accord of musk (Galaxolide), jasmine (Hedione), powdery iris (methyl ionone) and light wood (Iso E Super). This so-called ‘Grojsman accord’ makes up some 80% of the formula and is largely responsible for its assertive-yet-comforting feel. The top is brightened with dewy peach and apricot while a pastel coloured rose adds a classically feminine appeal. 
In its reincarnation as La Nuit Trésor, what once was the star of the show now fulfils only a supporting rôle: the original hug-me accord is eclipsed by an overdose of vanilla and caramel (ethyl maltol), while the rose is rendered much more more spicy-rich (in the direction of Cashmeran) with a very fleeting top-note of lychee. 
The bottle too has been tweaked by giving it more of a cut diamond shape, pointing the once flat base. Rather annoyingly, this means La Nuit Trésor is one of those flacons that cannot stand up of its own accord. There is, perhaps, a metaphor in there somewhere. 

Noses: Christophe Raynaud, Amandine Marie.
House: Lancôme
Release date: 2015
Notes (per Fragrantica): pear, black rose, vanilla orchid, patchouli, papyrus, incense, lychee, praline.

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