Flower Review

Key to understanding Alberto Morillas’ Flower is an appreciation of the enormous contribution Sofia Grojsman has made to perfumery with fragrances like Trésor. As previously mentioned, Grojsman effectively introduced a new style of scents built around a monolithic ‘hug me’ accord of Galaxolide, Iso E Super, Methyl Ionone and Hedione. In roughly equal proportion, these materials combine to produce a soft-focus, clean, powdery accord of good substantivity and radiance that can be used to make up a high percentage of the finished product and straightforwardly modified.

Beginning with this template, Flower develops the ionone facet into a pastel violet accord which is then clasically complemented with rose. Hedione provides a jasminic lift, its green and white tonalities dovetailing with some hydroxycitronellal type muguet notes. The musk complex meanwhile, is rendered a little more sophisticated with Helvetolide adding subtle fruity, pear nuances, the whole thing being sweetened up with a moderate dose of vanilla. In terms of development, there’s little to speak of, though as the fragrance reaches the end of its evaporation curve, the pale woodsiness becomes a touch more apparent.

As so often, the cross-over in trends between functional and fine-fragrance works to the latter’s detriment and Flower’s dryer-sheet associations are ultimately hard to shake.

Nose: Alberto Morillas

House: Kenzo

Release date: 2000

Notes (per Fragrantica): cassis, hawthorn, bulgarian rose, orange, opoponax, jasmine, parma violet, vanilla, musk, incense.