Salome by perfumer Liz Moores is a dense floral chypre whose heavy use of naturals and strong animalic bent place it in the same broad category as Bogue’s Maai, which I recently reviewed. Many of my reservations in respect to the latter apply here too, but ultimately this is simply a matter of taste.
Jasmine, orange blossom and rose constitute Salome’s deep floral heart that comes off not so much indolic as almost petrol like. The head accord contrasts fresh orange with a good dose of cumin and an already detectable styrax which together introduce the leathery, phenolic, woody, animalic theme that comes to dominate. Particularly apparent here is hyraceum which in recent years has found favour among several indy perfumers. While hyraceum has the advantage over castoreum insofar as it can be harvested without harm to the animal that produces it, its tincture nonetheless seems to lack a certain warmth that comes through with (real) castoreum at dilution. Perhaps for this reason, Moores elaborated the chypre base with additional animalics for a fuller feel.
While my personal preference is for perfumes that are structured with a greater sense of space and clarity, Salome’s style is sure to find receptive noses.
Nose: Liz Moores
House: Papillon Artisan Perfumes
Release date: 2015
Notes (per Fragrantica): bitter orange, bergamot, turkish rose, orange blossom, tobacco, carnation, jasmine, hyrax, styrax, vanilla, hay, patchouli, oakmoss, cumin, birch, castoreum.