Vierges et Toreros is an animalic tuberose scent that, like the best of the Etat Libre d’Orange line, is provocatory without the suspicion of trolling.
In contrast to Malle’s Carnal Flower which focused on the blossom’s creamy, fatty facets with ylang-ylang and plenty of lactones, Lie and Maisondieu’s portrait accents firstly tuberose’s salicylatey side with a pronounced wintergreen note (so bending its steps towards Lutens' Tubereuse Criminelle and recalling tuberose's extract rather than its Headspace), then its dirty, indolic side with Synarome’s famous Animalis base that smells above all of costus replacement. Cutting through costus’ hairy sebaceousness is its fruity green note that is often described as unripe melon but which comes across to me more pear-like. To the white floral component, this is very complementary and so pairs off the toreros with the vierges nicely.
Noses: Antoine Lie, Antoine Maisondieu
House: Etat Libre d’Orange
Release date: 2007
Notes (per Fragrantica): bergamot, nutmeg, pepper, cardamom, ylang-ylang, tuberose, leather, costus, patchouli, vetiver.