Tuesday, 24 December 2013

Mandarine Mandarin Review

A gourmand of superlative credentials, Mandarine Mandarin ranges the breadth of the consumable plant kingdom.
The opening impression is strikingly redolent of celery and fennel with woody jasmine nuances, indicative of cis-jasmone. For a short while, the titular mandarine (/orange) appears zesty and bright but is soon tempered by the perfume’s brooding heart of smoked tea, maple syprup-like immortelle and familiar spices from the Lutens palette. Bon appétit !

Nose: Christopher Sheldrake
House: Serge Lutens
Release date: 2006
Notes (per Fragrantica): nutmeg, chinese orange; mandarin orange, tea, orange peel; labdanum, amber, tonk a bean, rose hip


  1. Well, however much intriguing I find this, I think Luca Turin got a fair point here when saying it is not very wearable. I applaud it and wear it when the mood strikes. ;)

  2. Thanks for dropping by, Larimar :)
    I've pretty well run through the sample you sent me. It's an odd one, for sure, but I'm sad that Lutens' days of doing these kinds of perfumes seem to be behind him (and us).

  3. Yes, apart from Une Voix Noire (which could be way smokier, boozier, dirtier and so on) all his recent stuff is mediocre to me. I am however happy with most his older fragrances in today's (modified due to IFRA etc) condition, one great exception though being Chergui, which lost its charm too much IMO.