Warm, honeyed herbaceous tones contrast with a cool, iononey powderiness, while sweaty cumin imbues the flower’s fleshiness with a
distinctly human sensuality. This spicy angle is further worked by the addition of mimosa (Acacia dealbata) – smell-wise the Plain Sister of cassie (Acacia farnesiana).
Cast in the classical mould, Une Fleur de Cassie’s indebtedness to
early XXth century perfumery is knowingly referenced: as the fragrance
approaches its nadir, the trinity of vanillic amber, soft woods and musk, immortalised in No.5, draws into familiar focus.
Truly excellent with impressive longevity, too.
Truly excellent with impressive longevity, too.
[N.B. Keen noses began uttering the dreaded ‘r’ word some
time back in relation to Une Fleur de Cassie. The truth of this rumour was
confirmed to me by M. Malle, who admitted to a change in the mimosa absolute
employed].
Nose: Dominique Ropion
House: Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle
Release date: 2000
Notes (per Fragrantica): mimosa, jasmine, black locust, rose, carnation, sandalwood, vanilla, cassis
Notes (per Fragrantica): mimosa, jasmine, black locust, rose, carnation, sandalwood, vanilla, cassis
Thanks for the confirmation with regard to the mimosa/cassie. The first version retained a more animalic vibe throughout. Great review!
ReplyDeleteLarimar
And thanks to you for first tipping me off to the reformulation !
ReplyDeleteJust bought a new bottle of this, my third... It's paler in colour and whereas wearing the previous ones were like having a living entity with definite personality flaws dance around you, the new one has had therapy and have become less difficult but a tad less interesting. Still beautiful though.
ReplyDeleteHi,
ReplyDeleteSounds about right. *sigh*.