Friday, 27 December 2013

Une Fleur de Cassie Review

Warm, honeyed herbaceous tones contrast with a cool, iononey powderiness, while sweaty cumin imbues the flower’s fleshiness with a distinctly human sensuality. This spicy angle is further worked by the addition of mimosa (Acacia dealbata) – smell-wise the Plain Sister of cassie (Acacia farnesiana). 
Cast in the classical mould, Une Fleur de Cassie’s indebtedness to early XXth century perfumery is knowingly referenced: as the fragrance approaches its nadir, the trinity of vanillic amber, soft woods and musk, immortalised in No.5, draws into familiar focus.
Truly excellent with impressive longevity, too. 

[N.B. Keen noses began uttering the dreaded ‘r’ word some time back in relation to Une Fleur de Cassie. The truth of this rumour was confirmed to me by M. Malle, who admitted to a change in the mimosa absolute employed].

Nose: Dominique Ropion
House: Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle
Release date: 2000
Notes (per Fragrantica): mimosa, jasmine, black locust, rose, carnation, sandalwood, vanilla, cassis


  1. Thanks for the confirmation with regard to the mimosa/cassie. The first version retained a more animalic vibe throughout. Great review!

  2. And thanks to you for first tipping me off to the reformulation !

  3. Just bought a new bottle of this, my third... It's paler in colour and whereas wearing the previous ones were like having a living entity with definite personality flaws dance around you, the new one has had therapy and have become less difficult but a tad less interesting. Still beautiful though.

  4. Hi,

    Sounds about right. *sigh*.