An abstracted floral that feels as if it were pulled straight from Plato’s realm of the ἰδέα, Jour d’Hermès references the olfactive Form of flowers without bringing a single one to full realisation.
Apparent through much of the perfume’s development is the tart, fruity-green scent of Gardenol (Styralyl Acetate). Although the material is a key component in re-creating the smell of gardenia, when afforded a more prominent role, as here, it in fact resembles most closely rhubarb. Adding to the somewhat acerbic top is a squeeze of lemon and, depending on how one slices the composition, this serves to broaden the range of floral impressions: thus, for example, in tandem with the sweet muguet complex it conjures the Shade of magnolia (less perhaps, the clovey nuance). There is, naturally, more than a hint of rose floating in the mix, as well perhaps a suggestion of jasmine. One could continue with this exercise but ultimately, it all becomes a bit too academic. And therein lies the rub:
Jour d’Hermès is an unimpeachably well-blended fragrance with all the myriad floral components singing in concert and integrating perfectly with the woodsy-musky-lactonic fond. But paradoxically, in saying everything all at one, it ends up saying not very much at all.
Nose: Jean-Claude Ellena
Release date: 2012
Notes (per Fragrantica): none