Monday, 21 April 2014

Jour d'Hermès (EdP) Review

An abstracted floral that feels as if it were pulled straight from Plato’s realm of the ἰδέα, Jour d’Hermès references the olfactive Form of flowers without bringing a single one to full realisation.
Apparent through much of the perfume’s development is the tart, fruity-green scent of Gardenol (Styralyl Acetate). Although the material is a key component in re-creating the smell of gardenia, when afforded a more prominent role, as here, it in fact resembles most closely rhubarb. Adding to the somewhat acerbic top is a squeeze of lemon and, depending on how one slices the composition, this serves to broaden the range of floral impressions: thus, for example, in tandem with the sweet muguet complex it conjures the Shade of magnolia (less perhaps, the clovey nuance). There is, naturally, more than a hint of rose floating in the mix, as well perhaps a suggestion of jasmine. One could continue with this exercise but ultimately, it all becomes a bit too academic. And therein lies the rub:
Jour d’Hermès is an unimpeachably well-blended fragrance with all the myriad floral components singing in concert and integrating perfectly with the woodsy-musky-lactonic fond. But paradoxically, in saying everything all at one, it ends up saying not very much at all.

Nose: Jean-Claude Ellena
House: Hermès
Release date: 2012
Notes (per Fragrantica): none

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