Released in 1975, yet smelling more of 1925, Parure’s fate was arguably sealed from the outset.
A giddily dense, even chaotic Chypre, J.-P. Guerlain’s creation explores the dark, fruity facets of rose by pairing it with a deep plum note that’s bordering on the alcoholic. Unlike Nahéma, which was launched just four years later and blazed a pioneering trail with its overdose of alpha-damascone that forever changed the representation of rose in perfumery, Parure seems contentedly retrospect, quoting the spicy-green complex of Vol de Nuit over a dry, leathery, backdrop. In the base, patchouli blends with plenty of pungent oakmoss and an amber-(styrax ?)-balsamic accord to bittersweet effect.
Nose: Jean-Paul Guerlain
Release date: 1975 (discontinued)
Notes (per Fragrantica): plum, bergamot, green notes lily of the valley, rose, iris, lilac, jasmine, narcissus, oak moss, spices, amber, rose patchouli.