The story of Iris Silver Mist’s conception is now firmly established in the canon of perfume myth: Maurice Roucel, it is said, plugged the organoleptic term ‘iris’ into his fragrance database and set about combining all the results returned to create this scent. Besides a very respectable amount of orris butter (4.5%), the perfume contains a high dose of Isoraldeine (methyl ionones) and the IFF base Irival.
As its name suggests, Iris Silver Mist is intended to showcase orris’ impressive vocal range, from its ringing, silvery-metallic ‘top notes’ to its damp, vegetal-earthy fond. It’s in its mid-register however, where the scent sings most sublimely, developing a delicately powdered green-floral accord of intense beauty. The natural woodsy facets of iris meanwhile, are elaborated by the addition of cedar oil that coaxes forth a distinct nuttiness in the composition. Then slowly, almost imperceptibly, the perfume begins to darken in hue as the sweetly spiced, clovey odour of (Iso-)eugenol takes over, guiding the transition to a base of coumarin and plump musks.
Nose: Maurice Roucel
House: Serge Lutens
Release date: 1994
Notes (per Fragrantica): orris root, galbanum, cedar, sandalwood, clove, vetiver, musk, Chinese benzoin, incense, white amber.