Saturday 21 June 2014

Avignon Review

Of the various incense perfumes, Avignon perhaps most convincingly captures the spirit of olibanum, whose terpy-citric-mineralic scent is vaguely redolent of Coca-Cola. Here, this association is particularly pronounced in the opening when the sweetly herbal odour of Roman chamomile is most noticeable and the fragrance has a refreshing zinginess.
If there’s a criticism to be leveled against Bertrand Duchaufour’s creation however, it’s that the timbered facet of frankincense feels somewhat over-developed by a heavy (circa 25 %) Iso E Super-driven chord of woods and woody-ambers (inc. cedramber, cedryl methyl ether ?). Still, the presence of some guaiac-type smokiness in the fond successfully contributes to the liturgical theme, and is perfectly balanced by lightly powdered musk.

Nose: Bertrand Duchaufour
House: Comme des Garçons
Release date: 2002
Notes (per Fragrantica): incense, chamomile, vanilla, patchouli, rosewood ambrette.

5 comments:

  1. Interestingly you can't create church air if you use only only olibanum, myrrh, opoponax, styrax. Technically diffifult to design cold church walls, incense smoke, woody things. I tried many times to get this effect but I couldn't do it in the lab. Actullay, I got a bee in my bonned about create this accord!

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  2. Hi Koray,

    Indeed, a technical challenge and likely not possible using only natural resins. Lots of C-12 MNA, musks, woody ambers and some phenolic materials are (I'm guessing) also required.
    I adore incense perfumes as a genre and burn a lot of green hojari grade frankincense at home.
    Good luck with your accord and thanks for commenting,
    -L.

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    1. The perfumer said to me "Use C-12 MNA to give an incensy effect and he added " combine with absolutes (not oil) like myrrh, olibanum, opoponax To give an stone effect, use veramoss. For darker effect, use patchouli (with patchoulol) and black pepper" How many trials ı have tried ı dont remember but ı will get it soon! Hope so..

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  3. Koray, are you familiar with Givaudan's incense smelling captive Mystikal? If you have a chemistry background and access to a lab (or can convince someone who does to help you), you might be able to make your own, starting with C-12 MNA.
    I never thought of veramoss as having much of a stone smell - it's quite powdery. But I'm not a perfumer, so what do I know?
    As for dark notes, I'd say you have quite a few options.
    Good luck with your trials.




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  4. Ah unfortunately, we don't have this captive molecule!I will put lot of c12 mna to give an incensy effect, with myyrh, olibanum, patchouli and labdanum. The perfumer said once that I can use it for dusty-stone effect. Miller Harris L'Air de Rien has a lot of veramoss to give an dusty library ambiance actually. Thank you for your options. :)

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