Thursday, 23 October 2014

Snob (reissue) Review

Snob falls under the broad category of fruity-florals, though mercifully avoid the bubblegum tendencies of many modern interpretations.
The floral complex here is cool and crisp: a touch of sweetness and indole suggests jasmine; some watery greenness lily of the valley; there's an idea of orange blossom, too. 
Saffron adds a nice spicy-leathery contrast to the opening, while Decanal (C-10 aldeyhde) imparts a penetrating waxiness, giving skin to the flesh of green apples.
As the bouquet fades, some rather modern-smelling musks come to the fore, but a bit of  woodsiness in the base helps it retain character.

Nose: Thomas Fontaine (after Paul Vacher)
House: Le Galion
Release date: 2014 (reissue, on original see below)
Notes (per Fragrantica): mandarin, bergamot, saffron, apple, rose, iris, jasmine, orange blossom, tagetes, sandalwood, cedar, musk.

[Excursus: The rights to sell a perfume named ‘Snob’ in the US was the subject of a protracted legal wrangle between Le Galion and Patou. Although Le Galion had been marketing and selling Snob since the late 1940s, first in France, then abroad (including the US), Patou registered the same name with the US patents office in 1951, as well the US Bureau of Customs in 1953. The result was that, in 1955, a shipment of Le Galion’s Snob was barred by the US Commissioner of Customs.
There followed a series of legal actions by Le Galion seeking relief, as well cancellation of Patou’s registration of the name Snob. The first two actions by Le Galion, in 1956, and 1965, were dismissed for lack of prosecution. The third action, initiated in 1966, was finally brought to trial in 1972. Le Galion was unsuccessful.
In order to retain exclusive rights under trademark law, one must make ‘deliberate and continuous’ use of it. Since 1951, Patou had, in fact, made a token effort at producing a perfume named Snob in the US, selling precisely 72 bottles in the period to 1967, with a gross declared profit of $100 (where Le Galion had made over $2,000,000 from Snob in a 5 year period).
In District Judge Gagliardi’s opinion, this was sufficient to show that Patou had made bona fide use of its trademark. ]

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