Anjin’s head accord is constructed around a light/dark
contrast with zingy citrus notes being shaded by clove and allspice. The
hesperidic top links to a lightly herbal heart that has a warm, gingery aura
and the whole thing lifts off the skin with a C12 (MNA) aldehyde type
gaseousness. As Anjin’s woodsy base begins to assert itself, the fragrance
comes to somewhat resemble No.5, if you can imagine the latter minus its floral
notes: incense-like aldehydes atop a musky, ambery, sandalwood fond. The
sandalwood here is lightly creamy with a hint of nuttiness, but it has a more
modern, Javanol-y feel.
A thoughtfully made perfume.
Nose: Chris Bartlett
House: Pell Wall Perfumes
Release date: 2011
Notes (per Basenotes): Bergamot, cedrat, green mandarin,
lime, neroli, coriander, pink pepper, ginger, violet, ambergris, cedar,
sandalwood, vanilla, tonka, white musk.
Many thanks for the insightful review :-)
ReplyDeleteI’ve done a little blog post of my own linking here and to another review - very different - that you might find it interesting to read now that you’ve done yours.
I’m always fascinated to see what other people find in my fragrances that I didn’t see there myself: in this case the (very flattering) comparison with No. 5 is something I’d never considered.
Hi Chris,
ReplyDeleteThank you for stopping by and commenting - you're the first perfumer to do so :)
I'm always interested in the compositional side of things, so please feel free to correct me if need be. It's how one learns.
I look forward to following your links.
Best,
L.
My pleasure, and how lovely to be the first :-)
ReplyDeleteAnjin has some 23 different materials contributing to the sandalwood note (including the natural oil) - Javanol is one and it’s the strongest - but you might find it interesting to explore some of the others. I find them very difficult to pick out individually when used together but you spend a lot more time evaluating finished fragrances than I do.
Happy sniffing!
Best,
Chris
Thanks! You’re right about the norlimbanol - it’s more than a trace though at over 2.5% of the formula - that’s a high dose for such a powerful material and it’s crucial to the way this fragrance works: good spot.
ReplyDeleteOh, wow. Being so well blended, the Norlimbanol certainly doesn't seem as if it were used at that level.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the additional insight, Chris.