Paloma Picasso was a wonderfully satisfying animalic chypre with the emphasis firmly on the animalic.
Above a notably mossy patchouli fond sits a soapy floral blend of rose, muguet and sweet jasmine/Hedione, propped up by some vetiveryl acetate and MCK-like woody notes; all totally classical. The twist however, comes in the form of a very healthy dose of castoreum (synthetic, presumably but smelling quite real) that lends the composition an irresistably warm, leathery dimension.
Seamlessly blended, perfectly judged and unlikely to smell as good in its current iteration.
Nose: Credited to Paloma Picasso
House: Paloma Picasso
Release date: 1984
Notes (per Fragrantica): neroli, coriander, carnation, angelica, bergamot, lemon, rose, jasmine, hyacinth, ylang, patchouli, mimosa, sandalwood, amber, oakmoss, vetiver, civet, castoreum, musk.