Lady Day Review

Lady Day announces its presence with a camphorous blast of methyl salicylate / wintergreen and pellucid green notes that cede to a blend of clean, milky white florals (tending to lily in the latter stages). Unusual in its apparent use of a gardenia absolute, those seeking a reference example of the flower may nevertheless feel unsated.

Nose: Maria Candida Gentile

House: Maria Candida Gentile
Release date: 2012
Notes (per Fragrantica): galbanum, natural gardenia absolute, balsam.

Une Fleur de Cassie Review

Warm, honeyed herbaceous tones contrast with a cool, iononey powderiness, while sweaty cumin imbues the flower’s fleshiness with a distinctly human sensuality. This spicy angle is further worked by the addition of mimosa (Acacia dealbata) – smell-wise the Plain Sister of cassie (Acacia farnesiana). 

Cast in the classical mould, Une Fleur de Cassie’s indebtedness to early XX^th century perfumery is knowingly referenced: as the fragrance approaches its nadir, the trinity of vanillic amber, soft woods and musk, immortalised in No.5, draws into familiar focus.
Truly excellent with impressive longevity, too. 

[N.B. Keen noses began uttering the dreaded ‘r’ word some time back in relation to Une Fleur de Cassie. The truth of this rumour was confirmed to me by M. Malle, who admitted to a change in the mimosa absolute employed].

Nose: Dominique Ropion

House: Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle

Release date: 2000
Notes (per Fragrantica): mimosa, jasmine, black locust, rose, carnation, sandalwood, vanilla, cassis

Golden Boy Review

Golden Boy is a modern style leather scent that relies heavily on Safraleine whose hot odour profile has an overtly synthetic vibe: think pleather rather than full-grain hide. A Suederal like base, together with vanilla, Iso E Super and musks make up the fond. 

Nose: Sonia Constant

House: Dueto

Release date: 2011
Notes (per Fragrantica): saffron, violet leaf; lavender, cedar, thyme, leather; musk, incense, vanilla, suede

Mandarine Mandarin Review

A gourmand of superlative credentials, Mandarine Mandarin ranges the breadth of the consumable plant kingdom.

The opening impression is strikingly redolent of celery and fennel with woody jasmine nuances, indicative of cis-jasmone. For a short while, the titular mandarine (/orange) appears zesty and bright but is soon tempered by the perfume’s brooding heart of smoked tea, maple syprup-like immortelle and familiar spices from the Lutens palette. Bon appétit !

Nose: Christopher Sheldrake
House: Serge Lutens
Release date: 2006

Notes (per Fragrantica): nutmeg, chinese orange; mandarin orange, tea, orange peel; labdanum, amber, tonk a bean, rose hip

Yellow Sea Review

Yellow Sea suffers from something of a split personality: part oriental, part sports fragrance. It's a sport-iental, if you will. 

A creamy citrus accord overlays a sweet balsamic base that contains a touch of dirty castoreum. The addition however, of a substantial dose of dihydromyrcenol, whose powerful metallic freshness is shorthand for 'men’s cologne', is regrettable and fails to gel. 

Nose: Jean-Claude Astier

House: M.Micallef

Release date: 2008 (discontinued)
Notes (per Fragrantica):  Lime, Bergamot, Tangerine; Patchouli, Cedarwood, Incense;  Ambergris, Benzoin, Castoreum

L'Heure Vertueuse III Review

L’Heure Vertueuse is a vivid evocation of Mediterranean verdure. The pungent greenery of cis-3-hexenol recalls freshly cut fields of grass and is here paired with rustic lavender and an impression of wild mint which plays cache-cache with my nose. There's possibly a touch of Floralozone too, adding a fresh breeziness to the composition. 

Linear and relatively short lasting, the fragrance makes few concessions. Those feeling ungenerous may call it a one-trick-pony, but given the trajectory of mainstream perfumery, this kind of audacious release is to be encouraged. 

Nose: Mathilde Laurent

House: Cartier

Release date: 2012
Notes (per Fragrantica): absinthe, rosemary, mastic, thyme, verbena, lavender