In Christopher Sheldrake’s perfumed paean to myrrh, the titular resin’s rays are refracted through an aldehydic prism and rendered crystalline.
Comparisons with No.5 are perhaps inevitable, though where the Chanel famously relies upon the series of aldehydes C10-12 for its characteristic fizz, most prominent in La Myrrhe is mandarin aldehyde whose long lasting mandarin-orange sparkle extends through most phases of the perfume’s development. Benzaldehyde seems to be present too, noticeable in the top as a nutty, almond note and possibly some anisaldehyde complementing the natural licorice-like facet of myrrh.
From time to time, I detect faint terpenic whiffs resembling pine, together with some beautifully inconspicuous spices that add a slight piquancy. Pillowy musks and a none-too-sweet amber accord anchor the fragrance and provide the merest whisper of powder.
Nose: Christopher Sheldrake
House: Serge Lutens
Release date: 1995
Notes (per Fragrantica): mandarin, myrrh, lotus, bitter almond, sandalwood, honey, jasmine, amber, musk, various spices and pimento