For all the hyperbole that surrounds Muscs Koublaï Khän, I’ve always considered Miel de Bois the true animalic beast in the Lutens stable.
Despite some minor tweaks to the formala, the perfume remains pleasingly pissy, thanks to a good dose of phenylacetic acid that’s instrumental in creating the honey (miel) smell.
Bridging the gap to the woody-amber base is an impressive amount of beta ionone, which adds a dry, orris-like facet with slight floralcy.
Nose: Christopher Sheldrake
House: Serge Lutens
Release date: 2005
Notes (per Fragrantica): Honey, guiac wood, oak, wax, iris, animal notes, hawthorn.