As a sub-genre, the patchocolate can be traced back to Christopher Sheldrake’s Bornéo 1834 (Serge Lutens, 2005) – a wonderfully adult oriental-gourmand built around an overdose of patchouli oil (c.57%) and Givaudan’s (ex-Quest Intl.) cocoa base Chocovan.
To compare the two, Giovanni Sammarco’s Bond-T feels less travaillé, that’s to say less polished, less complex too despite its evident heavy use of naturals. The woody, incensey and mossy elements of the former are here swapped out for a much more straightforward animalic fond, allowing the fragrance to slide into a long-lasting finish of honey and leather that’s a little too over-indulgent for my personal tastes.
Nose: Giovanni Sammarco
Release date: 2013
Notes (per Fragrantica): cacao, patchouli, castoreum, tonka, vanilla, osmanthus.