Given the trend for top-loading fragrances – that is, attempting to lure customers with attractive head-notes alone, it is very gratifying to come across a modern perfume with a base as thoughtfully composed and enjoyable as Iris Nazarena’s.
Initially green, even cucumbery, Ralf Schwieger’s creation quickly takes a fruity iris turn. Far from the cold, metallic dampness of, say, Iris Silver Mist, the titular orris note here is developed into a comfortingly sweet, powdery accord that has some distinct apple/pear nuances. The woody facets of iris are then elaborated with the wonderfully soapy, floral sandalwood tones of Osyrol while an ambrette driven musk complex provides fruity continuity.
Nose: Ralf Schweiger
House: Aedes de Venustas
Release date: 2013
Notes (per Fragrantica): Iris, ambrette, juniper berries, anise, leather, oud, cloves, rose, incense, woody notes, vetiver, amber.