Cuir de Nacre Review

The name ‘cuir de nacre’ is actually quite apt for this metallic-grey smelling perfume. Its basic powdery orris with suede accents theme occupies the same sphere as Dior’s Homme (O. Polge, 2005) whose cool colouring was reflected in its silvery packaging. In comparison, the ionones here tend a little more towards raspberry and the suede effect, while still being quite subtle, is somewhat more leatherette. As the composition progresses, it gains in oriental sweetness, revealing a synthy sandalwood fond (smelling a bit Javanol-ey) wrapped in layers of pillowy, powdery musk and ambrette.

Harmonious if wanting for contrast.

Nose: Bertrand Duchaufour

House: Ann Gerard

Release date: 2012

Notes (per Fragrantica): aldehydes, angelica root, ambrette absolute, currant bud absolute, iris, leather accord, sandalwood, white musk, styrax.

Rose Cut Review

Rose Cut is one of the more interesting (though by no means groundbreaking) perfumes in the Ann Gerard collection. At its core lies a yeasty Moroccan rose that initially comes off as feeling a little flat, but soon reveals a more pleasant, berried character, hinting at raspberry and cassis. At this stage, Rose Cut somewhat resembles Serge Lutens’ La Fille de Berlin (Christopher Sheldrake, 2013), but has a less pronounced metallic, rose oxide facet and the musks are better concealed. 

Pink pepper and plenty of cinnamon add contrast and link to some clean, ambered patchouli that serves for a chypre base. 

Nose: Bertrand Duchaufour

House: Ann Gerard

Release date: 2014

Notes (per Fragrantica):aldehydes, rum, pink pepper, rose, peony, patchouli, vanilla, oakmoss, benzoin. 

Perle de Mousse Review

Perle de Mousse is a soapy-aldehydic, green floral centred around galbanum and a watery/metallic lily-of-the-valley (hydroxycitronellal, helional etc) ’perle’ note. The composition is given a nice pear-like twist in the top, but the promised moss (mousse) is unfortunately wanting, leaving the perfume without much heft or character. 

Nose: Bertrand Duchaurfour

House: Ann Gerard

Release date: 2012

Notes (per Fragrantica): aldehydes, pink pepper, bergamote, green mandarin, galbanum, ivy, lily of the valley, Bulgarian roe, cloves, jasmine, geranium, lentic absolute, ambergris, musk, vanilla.

Ciel d'Opale Review

A citrus-floral, Ciel d’Opale’s opening is all about the idea of bergamot with bright citrus atop an anisic lavender/herbal complex. This is freshened by a very pronounced ozonic note (towards Floralozone) that, together with cassis introduces a vague, semi-sweet floral heart. It all feels a bit mundane, right down to the fond that consist of a very standard musk/coumarin/vanilla/light woods arrangement. 

House: Ann Gerard

Nose: Bertrand Duchaufour

Release date: 2012

Notes (per Fragrantica): quince, bergamot, lemon, galbanum, pepper, lily of the valley, cassia, jasmine, honeysuckle, amber, cedar, guaiac, vetiver, sandalwood, vanilla.