Cologne Indélébile Review

If Geza Schoen were to ever include in his Molecule line a dilution of Habanolide/Globalide, the complementary Escentric composition could well smell like Cologne Indélébile. Constituting half the formula, the distinctive starchy, metallic, hot-iron signature of the 11/12-pentadecen-15-olide isomers dominate this blend from top to bottom, relegating the hesperidic (orange blossom, bergamot, lemon) and floral (Hedione, narcissus) notes to mere supporting roles. 

Having transferred some from my skin to my jumper sleeve by accident, I understand why this is called indélébile - even after a laundry wash, I can still smell it over whatever musks are in my detergent :/

For a more pleasant take on the Nu Cologne genre, cf. Alexandra Kosinski’s work for ELd’O.

Nose: Dominique Ropion

House: Editions de Parfum Frédéric Malle

Release date: 2015

Notes (per Fragrantica): bergamot, lemon, jasmine, narcissus, orange blossom, neroli, musk. 

Superstitious Review

When the director of a perfume line drops names like Arpège in the same breath as their new launch, it’s generally safe to put the whole thing down to exuberant marketing and  move on. Unless, that is, the director happens to be Frédéric Malle and the perfumer behind the creation Dominique Ropion. 

Conceived in the lineage of the great aldehydic florals that dominated feminine perfumery from the 1920s (No.5, Arpège etc) through the 1960s (Madame Rochas), Superstitious not only reads as a modern hermeneutic but links to André Fraysse’s totemic creation through the creative input of former Lanvin artistic director Alber Elbaz (who, incidentally, also re-designed Arpège’s packaging back in 2009 for the house’s 120th anniversary). 

In contrast to the self-styled retro chypres released by several indy outfits in recent years which are characterised by a heavy-handed use of animalics and muddy blends of natural extracts, Superstitious displays a resolutely modern aesthetic of precise, minimalist architecture and sheer radiance. 

Softening the harsher facets of the aldehydic high notes is a floral heart dominated by a classic combination of rose+jasmine+a Lilial-type muguet note and diluted with Hedione for brightness. This is balanced with a long-lasting, sweet peach/apricot note of sunny disposition that recalls those specialty ingredients that usually have ‘nectar’ in their name (plus Liffarome?). Ionones meanwhile, serve as a customary bridge to the woody base notes of which sandalwood and Haitian vetiver are spoken of in the official description. Absent are the strong nutty associations carried by the latter, suggesting Ropion here perhaps followed Arpège’s model of using just a small amount of the oil to fill out a larger dose of the topped-and-tailed acetate. With a similar de-emphasis on vanillin/coumarin, the composition finally dries out to a very elegant blend of modern musks and a somewhat ambrox-y feeling amber(gris) note. 

Nose: Dominique Ropion

House: Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle

Release date: 2017

Notes (per Fragrantica): jasmine, rose, vetiver, patchouli, peach, incense, amber.

Musc Ravageur Review

Musc Ravageur is essentially an old-school animalic Oriental dressed up in modern garb. 

The perfume hangs on a classic chord of bergamot, lavender and vanilla which projects with plenty of Iso E Super like radiance. The gourmand sweetness of the fond is here played up with spicy notes of clove and cinnamon, and the whole thing is wrapped up in thick layers of furry musk. The latter smells remarkably like IFF’s specialty Tonquitone base, a synthetic replacement for natural musk deer grains. Although now a protected species, the tincture from the glands of Moschus moschiferus once made up a reported 15% of Chanel No.5’s formula (together with 15% natural civet infusion, per Kraft et al.). 

A tad rougher in feel than Shalimar and the like, Musc Ravageur nevertheless succeeds in showcasing a largely forgotten facet of so many famous perfumes. 

Nose: Maurice Roucel

House: Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle

Relase date: 2000

Notes (per Fragrantica): lavender, bergamot, tangerine, cinnamon, clove, sandalwood, tonka, vanilla, guaiac, musk, amber. 

Carnal Flower Review

Dominique Ropion's take on a tuberose soliflore opens green and camphorous. Exaggerated yet avoiding all-out caricature, the cooling top notes contrapose the heavy, complex heart that, faithful to tuberose's character, has jasmine-, lily- and orange blossom-like facets. Sweet, coconuty lactones meanwhile, lend the bouquet its characteristic creaminess and contribute to an overall tropical vibe. More sultry than carnal, it is nevertheless a glorious example of perfumery in the grand style.

Nose: Dominique Ropion

House: Editions de Parfum Frédéric Malle

Release date: 2005
Notes (per Fragrantica): bergamot, melon, eucalyptus; ylang-ylang, jasmine, tuberose, salicylates; tuberose absolute, orange blossom absolute, coconut, musk.

Une Fleur de Cassie Review

Warm, honeyed herbaceous tones contrast with a cool, iononey powderiness, while sweaty cumin imbues the flower’s fleshiness with a distinctly human sensuality. This spicy angle is further worked by the addition of mimosa (Acacia dealbata) – smell-wise the Plain Sister of cassie (Acacia farnesiana). 

Cast in the classical mould, Une Fleur de Cassie’s indebtedness to early XX^th century perfumery is knowingly referenced: as the fragrance approaches its nadir, the trinity of vanillic amber, soft woods and musk, immortalised in No.5, draws into familiar focus.
Truly excellent with impressive longevity, too. 

[N.B. Keen noses began uttering the dreaded ‘r’ word some time back in relation to Une Fleur de Cassie. The truth of this rumour was confirmed to me by M. Malle, who admitted to a change in the mimosa absolute employed].

Nose: Dominique Ropion

House: Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle

Release date: 2000
Notes (per Fragrantica): mimosa, jasmine, black locust, rose, carnation, sandalwood, vanilla, cassis