XX±Latex Review

In a line that flies as under the radar as Uèr Mì, it’s surprising to see space given over to a fragrance that’s more conceptual than it is wearable.

XX±Latex is profoundly unsettling, moving from a waxy green, aldehydic top spiked with metallic rose oxide and marine notes to a pungent, indole laden heart that has herbal undertones. Perhaps banking on the fact that few people would endure the scent for the duration of its natural life, the base consists of a monster musk complex whose dry-cleaning vibe ultimately feels like a letdown.

Nose: Antoine Lie

House: Uèr Mì

Release date: 2014

Notes (per Fragrantica): sea notes, vinyl, saffron, aldehydes, rose.

NO±Suede Review

Of all the materials selected for the Uèr Mì line, suede is perhaps the most straightforward to interpret given the existence of such convincing specialty bases as IFF’s popular Suederal. 

Much like Sonia Constant’s Golden Boy (Dueto, 2011), NO±Suede enlivens the titular suede note with saffron, thereby adding a spicy, hot pleather dimension. The composition then turns dusty and oddly camphorous before drying down to a sweet, musky base featuring vanilla and a nice presentation of guaiac.

Nose: Antoine Lie

House:Uèr Mì

Release date: 2015

Notes (per Fragrantica): saffron, plum, lily-of-the-valley, guaiac, incense, leather, suede

AB±Cashmere Review

The attempt at translating the soft feel of cashmere fibre into perfume is nothing new: Chopard’s monolithic Casmir (1992), followed by DKNY’s Cashmere Mist (1994) both went down the polycyclic musk route featuring plenty of Galaxolide to achieve a comfy, clean laundry vibe. For his part, Jean Jacques interpreted the theme in a fruity, neo-chypre-oriental fashion that, for me at least, doesn’t really connect with the name, but is pleasant enough.

Initially bright and hesperidic, AB±Cashmere’s osmanthus heart quickly blossoms with its characteristic apricoty-peachiness. As studies of osmanthus go, the one here feels rather basic and were it not for the listed notes swaying me, I would simply describe the core as fruity-floral. Taken together with the moderately musky fond of patchouli, woods and amber, I’m somewhat brought to think of Chanel’s Coco or even 31 Rue Cambon, though, no surprise, I find the latter two much more satisfying and complex.

Nose: Jean Jacques

House: Uèr Mì

Release date: 2015

Notes (per Fragrantica): bergamot, olibanum, jasmine, osmanthus, patchouli, sandalwood, vanilla, musk, ambergris.