Cynefin Review

Cynefin is a woody-aromatic perfume with poor tenacity.  

Lavender dominates a soft, herbal core whose greenness is, for a short while, given an ozonic-fresh, semi-sweet lift. The listed notes include various Givaudan materials, including their Orpur quality of violet leaf absolute. The latter’s near prohibitive cost however, means it’s likely only a very little is actually included, it functioning more as a verdant nuancer. After a couple of hours on skin, much of the scent’s aromatic character is lost and what remains are traces of a desiccated, Norlimbanol-type wood with subtle amber and musk accents.

Nose: Shyamala Maisondieu

House: Rouge Bunny Rouge

Release date: 2013

Notes (per official website): floralozone, angelica seeds, davana, violet leaf abs Orpur, lavender oil Orpur, Muguet, Velvione, Moxalone, Amber, Metallic Wood.

Embers Review

From ‘embers’ to ‘incense’ isn’t much of a leap, though I must admit a straightforward olibanum and amber scent wasn’t exactly what I was expecting.

My reference for such perfumes remains CdG’s Avignon (Bertrand Duchaufour, 2002), despite the latter containing rather little actual incense oil (some reports claim 0% (!), others, circa 2%). In comparison to Embers, Avignon is more fizzy Coca-Cola, the pleasing note of Roman chamomile also seeming to lift the burden of a very labdanum heavy base.

Both though share a powdery-dry woodsiness that has a slightly burnt quality, like a piece of timber that has been run through a hot bandsaw. This becomes noticeable (and a bit fatiguing) much sooner in Embers where a spicy accord of nutmeg/cinnamon/clove almost seems to highlight it.

Nose: Shyamala Maisondieu

House: Rouge Bunny Rouge

Release date: 2013
Notes (per Fragrantica): nutmeg, pink pepper, cloves, incense, jasmine, freesia, labdanum, styrax, Peru balsam, woody notes.

Tundra Review

Perfumer Nathalie Lorson must surely have had Marc Jacobs’ Bang (Yann Vasnier, 2010) in mind when composing Tundra, so similar are the two fragrances. Both essentially consist of a peppery cedar wood accord contrasted with elemi. 

Bang was unique, containing a true overdose of pink and black pepper, as well Givaudan’s Pepperwood molecule that helps extend the effect of these rather volatile ingredients. I suspect many consumers found it just too sneeze-inducing though and for such reasons, Mme. Lorson was more restrained in her dosing. Instead, it seems, she accented the elemi, whose citrusy limonene provides a brighter counterpoint to the dark spices. Come the dry down, and Tundra remains on familiar territory, blending musks and woody-ambers with a prominent, powdery, Evernyl / Veramoss-type oakmoss replacer. 

Nose: Nathalie Lorson

House: Rouge Bunny Rouge

Release date: 2014

Notes (per Fragrantica): Bergamot, laurel, juniper, nutmeg, elemi, violet, cedar, musk, vetiver, pink pepper, moss, grass.

Silhouette Review

The popularity of the musky, spicy blond woods (read: Cashmeran driven) genre certainly seems to be on the ascent and Silhouette, by cosmetic brand Rouge Bunny Rouge, doesn’t stray too far from the basic theme.

Here, a fond of spicy (cinnamon, nutmeg), sensual woods and cosy amber is nicely balanced by a cade/birchtar note which provides a discreet aura of smoke.

Nose: Nathalie Lorson

House: Rouge Bunny Rouge

Release date: 2014

Notes (per Fragrantica): coriander, pimento, nutmeg, rose, atlas cedar, sandalwood, vetiver, musk, amber, guaiac wood, leather, juniper.