Boy Review

If asked five years ago which perfume line I most admire, I’d have unhesitatingly said Chanel’s Les Exclusifs. In it, classical masterpieces like Cuir de Russie and Bois des Iles sat, reformulated but recognisable, alongside creative success stories such as Coromandel. Recent releases however, have given me pause for thought: Jersey, I felt, was too apologetic (and for all the wrong reasons); 1932 too self-referential (as a Chanel perfume). Now with Boy, it seems that the very polished aesthetic Chanel has come to define itself by may well be undermining its potential for future greatness.

As openings go, Boy’s strikes me as actually somewhat unpleasant and includes a mix of fresh, methyl pamplemousse-type grapefruit and waxy, green, lower-numbered aliphatic aldehydes. The latter  help introduce the geranium themed floral heart that complements a classical fougère accord. Rather than being a glossy, bright geranium however, the one offered here comes in a powdery, pastel hue and is supported by a host of musks, sweet heliotrope and vanilla, a little, grainy Evernyl-like oakmoss replacer and light, sandalwood-ish woods. Advertised as an EdP, I found Boy to wear fairly close to the skin and have only average longevity; once the lavender notes faded, it was rather a linear, sweet-powdery-floral affair. 

Nose: Olivier Polge

House: Chanel

Release date: 2016

Notes (per Fragrantica): lavender, lemon, grapefruit, rose, geranium, orange-blossom, sandalwood, heliotrope, vanilla, musk. 

Allure Homme Sport Cologne Review

Confusingly named flankers and re-launches aside, Chanel’s Allure Homme Sport Cologne 2016 is a nice take on the genre that opens with a mandarin fronted citrus accord which has a pleasantly tart, pithy, green and lightly spicy quality as well as a natural freshness that avoids several ‘sport’ clichés. With no distinct heart-notes to speak of, what’s left of the fragrance after the above disappears is a monolithic, Iso E Supery- powdery- hot iron- starchy musk base that smells modern, clean and fresh. 

Nose: Olivier Polge

House: Chanel

Release date: 2016

Notes (per Parfumo): sicilian mandarin, lovage, elemi, cedarwood, amber, white musk.

Coco (EdP) Review

Coco is a spicy floriental that traces its lineage back through the Youth Dew branch of the Oriental tree. Like many in the genre, the perfume is built around the so-called Mellis accord that includes patchouli, spices - here most notably clove (eugenol), and benzyl salicylate which coheres everything in a clean, balsamic embrace. The floral contrast is provided principally by rose absolute whose darker facets are emphasised with damascones, giving a suggestion of plum and even wine. 

While Coco has an undeniably ‘purple’ feel, it expresses itself with a sense of levity. This is achieved by a perfectly balanced hesperidic head accord of mandarin, lemon and bergamot that's softened by peachy lactones. An Iso E Super boosted radiance meanwhile, creates a long-lasting scent bubble around its wearer. 

A true Modern Classic. 

Nose: Jacques Polge

House: Chanel

Release date: 1984

Notes (per Fragrantica): coriander, mandarin, peach, jasmine, bulgarian rose, mimosa, cloves, orange blossom, clover, rose, labdanum, amber, sandalwood, tonka bean, opoponax, civet, vanilla. 

Misia Review

Misia is the first perfume for Chanel signed by Olivier Polge and, if what I was told is correct, will be the last in the ‘Exclusifs’ line.

The fragrance revolves around a central theme of iris and violet, meaning irones/ionones galore. Inevitably, the slightly powdery texture will lead to associations with ladies’ cosmetics; it’s something, in fact, Chanel is positively encouraging. However, as with O. Polge’s Homme (Dior, 2005) which also drew a volley of ‘lipstick / makeup bag’ comparisons, I find the connection only slight.

Misia opens then with a cool, rooty/doughy iris. The record for orris butter content in a Chanel perfume is almost certainly held by 28 La Pausa (a reported 6,6%, per Kraft et al), but Misia feels like it can more than hold its own. There’s a convincing dampness too which is accentuated with a watery, green floral wash of hydroxycitronellal. As the fragrance waxes in coumarin and light amber-type sweetness, so too does the scent of violets and red, iononey raspberries which, in turn, bring out a rosier character in the composition. The process of transformation is wonderfully smooth and the result surprisingly persistent.

Nose: Olivier Polge

House: Chanel

Release date: 2015

Notes (per Fragrantica): violets, iris, rose, benzoin, tonka bean.