Costarela Review

Launched in anticipation of the northern Summer, Costarela is Carner Barcelona’s deft take on the (already well explored) beach theme.

Bergamot dominates the opening and as the note’s evaporation curve tails off, its Linalooly- agrestic character segues neatly into a much gentler, herbal-balsamic accord of suntan lotion like salicylates. The coastal scene is completed by some nicely judged marine notes, pale woods, Ambrox(an) and musks that together, create a fine impression of driftwood afloat the warm ocean.

Overall, Costarela is less innovative than Pierre Guillaume’s recent riffs (Entre Ciel et Mer and Paris Seychelles), but it is a nicely composed perfume that’s none-too-taxing to wear.

Nose: Shyamala Maisondieu

House: Carner Barcelona

Release date: 2016

Notes (per Fragrantica): bergamot, saffron, sea notes, sand, Virginian cedar, Ambroxan, amber.

Palo Santo Review

Shyamala Maisondieu’s Palo Santo (Sp. ‘sacred stick’) takes its name from the wooden chips or sticks burnt by curanderos (shamans) as part of folk healing practices. In Perú, Palo Santo typically indicates Bursera graveolens – a member of the Burseraceae family and so related to Frankincense and Myrrh. As painstakingly catalogued in Duke’s Handbook of Medicinal Plants of Latin America however, the appelation Palo Santo is applied to a wide variety of plant species across the region and it is important to note that here, it is Guaiacwood being referred to.

By accenting various of Guaiacwood’s facets, an opening impression of eggnog is created, blending lactonic (methyl laitone), boozy (davana), and caramelic sweet (vanilla, maltol) notes. As the augmented milkiness settles, the titular wood’s spicy and balsamic qualities appear at the fore, supported by vetiver that provides a subtle impression of smoke, and a fond of pale woods and musks. Substantivity is excellent, though the extended drydown develops little, remaining lightly creamy, resinous, woody and above all, sweet.

Nose: Shyamala Maisondieu

House: Carner Barcelona

Release date: 2015
Notes (per Fragrantica): artemisia, rum, milk, guaiac wood, tonka, vetiver, vanilla, sandalwood.