L'Heure Convoitée II Review

The opening of L’Heure Convoitée partners soft iris and a juicy, tutti-frutti note that mercifully avoids straying into cheap, ‘body mist’ territory. This fruitiness is soon washed away by watery, green, lily-like florals, spiced up by an unfashionably prominent carnation. With a dash of vanillic sweetness and powder, the retro vibe is complete.

Nose: Mathilde Laurent

House: Cartier

Release date: 2011

Notes (per Fragrantica): carnation, iris and powdery notes

L'Heure Promise I Review

The first hour. 

A constellation of diaphanous citrus hangs on the cool firmament of iris-y ionones, dimming in anticipation of the rosy-fingered dawn. 

But alas, the promised crepuscular blush goes unfulfilled as the whole quickly resolves into a blend of raspingly dry woods and thick, lumpen musks. 

House: Cartier

Nose: Mathilde Laurent

Release date: 2009

Notes (per Fragrantica): Petit grain, fresh herbs, iris, sandalwood, musks.

L’Heure Mystérieuse XII Review

L’Heure Mystérieuse, A.K.A. the XIIth hour, is Mathilde Laurent’s tenebrous take on the patchamber theme.

With perceptible relish, the challenging aspects of patchouli’s character are enunciated in clarion tones: from its strikingly camphorous top, whose cool vapours here curl with resinous incense, through its dark earthiness that’s augmented by impressions of dry woods, oakmoss, clove, and a dusting of cocoa powder. The whole is rounded out with plump musks and benzylic blenders that have a soft balsamic/floral/oily quality.

Nose: Mathilde Laurent

House: Cartier

Release date: 2009

Notes (per Fragrantica): jasmine, patchouli, coriander, elemi, incense, nutmeg

L'Heure Vertueuse III Review

L’Heure Vertueuse is a vivid evocation of Mediterranean verdure. The pungent greenery of cis-3-hexenol recalls freshly cut fields of grass and is here paired with rustic lavender and an impression of wild mint which plays cache-cache with my nose. There's possibly a touch of Floralozone too, adding a fresh breeziness to the composition. 

Linear and relatively short lasting, the fragrance makes few concessions. Those feeling ungenerous may call it a one-trick-pony, but given the trajectory of mainstream perfumery, this kind of audacious release is to be encouraged. 

Nose: Mathilde Laurent

House: Cartier

Release date: 2012
Notes (per Fragrantica): absinthe, rosemary, mastic, thyme, verbena, lavender