L'Esprit Divin Review

Safraleine is a complex smelling molecule, being all at once spicy, warm and slightly phenolic thereby recalling saffron, tobacco and (p)leather. Here, it’s laid over a powerful, desiccated woody base that has a dark and slightly dirty animalic feel. 

Nose: Paul Emilien

House: Paul Emilien

Release date: 2014

Notes (per Fragrantica): ginger, Madagascar cloves, indian saffron, cardamom, nutmeg, amber, rose, vanilla, incense, grapefruit, palisander rosewood, sandalwood, patchouli, cyperus esculentus, woody notes, violet leaf, turkish rose, amber, musk. 

Une Belle Journée Review

A berried-floral, Une Belle Journée starts off with a fresh, ozonic citrus accord linking to a red-purple heart of rose/geranium and violets. The latter’s sweetness is augmented with notes of cassis and musty, concord grape before ending up smelling principally of woodsy, celery-salty Hedione. 

Nose: Paul Emilien

House: Paul Emilien

Release date: 2014

Notes (per Fragrantica): lime, Turkish rose, mint, iris, mandarin orange, violet leaf, pink pepper, peony, rose, immortelle, geranium, jasmine, leather, oakmoss.

Pure Addiction Review

Why ‘Pure Addiction’ should have been chosen as the name for this very straightforward take on the woody-aromatic theme is anybody’s guess. For unlike By Kilian’s recent ‘Addictive States of Mind’ line which, at least notionally, took as its inspiration various psychoactive substances (cannabis, coffee, tobacco), Pure Addiction doesn’t even hint at anything in that direction.

The perfume opens with a classic hesperidic top to soft aromatic heart transition, the latter tending more to the culinary with hints of green kitchen herbs than fields of sharp, medicinal lavender. The complex doesn’t integrate well however, with the scorched woody base that sticks out like a sore thumb, despite some attempts at camouflaging it beneath a good dose of clovey eugenol.

Nose: Paul Emilien

House: Paul Emilien

Release date: 2014

Notes (per Fragrantica): cloves, cardamom, basil, bergamot, labdanum, cedar, sage, precious woods, amber, patchouli, white musk. 

Carrousel Review

Carrousel opens with a waxy aldehydic citrus accord from under which develops a sweetish coconut lactone note. If the promised jasmine, violet, Turkish rose are present, then they must be dosed at homeopathic levels.

Nose: Paul Emilien

House: Paul Emilien

Release date: 2014

Notes (per Fragrantica): pepper, eucalyptus, grapefruit, lemon, jasmine, violet, Turkish rose, white musk, amber, vanilla.