Saltus Review

In its primary sense, Latin saltūs m. means ‘jump, leap’ (cf. assault, somersault). It is to the secondary set of developed meanings ‘woodland, uncultivated land’ however, that Shyamala Maisondieu’s composition presumably points.

Uncompromisingly thujonic-terpenic, Saltus opens with a mix of cedar leaves, eucalyptus, camphor and incense. It’s green and sappy but also smells strongly medicinal and, as far as those around you will be concerned, you could as well dab on some tea tree oil.  

That there emerges from underneath the milky tones of ethyl laitone mixed with castoreum will do little to reassure others you’re not trying to treat some weird skin infection. 

A very interesting perfume that’s thoughtfully constructed but not one I’d really ever wish to wear. 

Nose: Shyamala Maisondieu

House: Les Liquides Imaginaires

Release date: 2015

Notes (per Fragrantica): cedar leaves, eucalyptus essence, camphor, styrax, ethyl laitone, patchouli, incense, tonka, castoreum artessence, Australian sandalwood. 

Charogne Review

Given the lily’s long association with death, the idea of a funereal take on the flower is an interesting one. 

Given also the name Charogne (cf. carrion, ultimately < Latin caro ‘flesh’, ‘meat’), that’s presumably the brief Shyamala Maisondieu was working to. 

To me however, this composition falls very wide of the anticipated mark. Opening on a vivid bubblegum note, the perfume soon falls apart leaving a spicy, woody oriental base with a pronounced clovey inflection that has a burnt, methyl diantilis like quality to it and which I suppose is meant to stand for lily. 

Nose: Shyamala Maisondieu

House: Etat Libre d’Orange

Release date: 2008
Notes (per Fragrantica): leather, ginger, lily, pink pepper, vanilla, jasmine, incense, ylang-ylang, bergamot, cardamom, osmanthus, styrax, labdanum, ambrette, musk. 

Costarela Review

Launched in anticipation of the northern Summer, Costarela is Carner Barcelona’s deft take on the (already well explored) beach theme.

Bergamot dominates the opening and as the note’s evaporation curve tails off, its Linalooly- agrestic character segues neatly into a much gentler, herbal-balsamic accord of suntan lotion like salicylates. The coastal scene is completed by some nicely judged marine notes, pale woods, Ambrox(an) and musks that together, create a fine impression of driftwood afloat the warm ocean.

Overall, Costarela is less innovative than Pierre Guillaume’s recent riffs (Entre Ciel et Mer and Paris Seychelles), but it is a nicely composed perfume that’s none-too-taxing to wear.

Nose: Shyamala Maisondieu

House: Carner Barcelona

Release date: 2016

Notes (per Fragrantica): bergamot, saffron, sea notes, sand, Virginian cedar, Ambroxan, amber.

Palo Santo Review

Shyamala Maisondieu’s Palo Santo (Sp. ‘sacred stick’) takes its name from the wooden chips or sticks burnt by curanderos (shamans) as part of folk healing practices. In Perú, Palo Santo typically indicates Bursera graveolens – a member of the Burseraceae family and so related to Frankincense and Myrrh. As painstakingly catalogued in Duke’s Handbook of Medicinal Plants of Latin America however, the appelation Palo Santo is applied to a wide variety of plant species across the region and it is important to note that here, it is Guaiacwood being referred to.

By accenting various of Guaiacwood’s facets, an opening impression of eggnog is created, blending lactonic (methyl laitone), boozy (davana), and caramelic sweet (vanilla, maltol) notes. As the augmented milkiness settles, the titular wood’s spicy and balsamic qualities appear at the fore, supported by vetiver that provides a subtle impression of smoke, and a fond of pale woods and musks. Substantivity is excellent, though the extended drydown develops little, remaining lightly creamy, resinous, woody and above all, sweet.

Nose: Shyamala Maisondieu

House: Carner Barcelona

Release date: 2015
Notes (per Fragrantica): artemisia, rum, milk, guaiac wood, tonka, vetiver, vanilla, sandalwood.

Cynefin Review

Cynefin is a woody-aromatic perfume with poor tenacity.  

Lavender dominates a soft, herbal core whose greenness is, for a short while, given an ozonic-fresh, semi-sweet lift. The listed notes include various Givaudan materials, including their Orpur quality of violet leaf absolute. The latter’s near prohibitive cost however, means it’s likely only a very little is actually included, it functioning more as a verdant nuancer. After a couple of hours on skin, much of the scent’s aromatic character is lost and what remains are traces of a desiccated, Norlimbanol-type wood with subtle amber and musk accents.

Nose: Shyamala Maisondieu

House: Rouge Bunny Rouge

Release date: 2013

Notes (per official website): floralozone, angelica seeds, davana, violet leaf abs Orpur, lavender oil Orpur, Muguet, Velvione, Moxalone, Amber, Metallic Wood.

Embers Review

From ‘embers’ to ‘incense’ isn’t much of a leap, though I must admit a straightforward olibanum and amber scent wasn’t exactly what I was expecting.

My reference for such perfumes remains CdG’s Avignon (Bertrand Duchaufour, 2002), despite the latter containing rather little actual incense oil (some reports claim 0% (!), others, circa 2%). In comparison to Embers, Avignon is more fizzy Coca-Cola, the pleasing note of Roman chamomile also seeming to lift the burden of a very labdanum heavy base.

Both though share a powdery-dry woodsiness that has a slightly burnt quality, like a piece of timber that has been run through a hot bandsaw. This becomes noticeable (and a bit fatiguing) much sooner in Embers where a spicy accord of nutmeg/cinnamon/clove almost seems to highlight it.

Nose: Shyamala Maisondieu

House: Rouge Bunny Rouge

Release date: 2013
Notes (per Fragrantica): nutmeg, pink pepper, cloves, incense, jasmine, freesia, labdanum, styrax, Peru balsam, woody notes.