L’Heure Mystérieuse XII Review

L’Heure Mystérieuse, A.K.A. the XIIth hour, is Mathilde Laurent’s tenebrous take on the patchamber theme.

With perceptible relish, the challenging aspects of patchouli’s character are enunciated in clarion tones: from its strikingly camphorous top, whose cool vapours here curl with resinous incense, through its dark earthiness that’s augmented by impressions of dry woods, oakmoss, clove, and a dusting of cocoa powder. The whole is rounded out with plump musks and benzylic blenders that have a soft balsamic/floral/oily quality.

Nose: Mathilde Laurent

House: Cartier

Release date: 2009

Notes (per Fragrantica): jasmine, patchouli, coriander, elemi, incense, nutmeg

La Myrrhe Review

In Christopher Sheldrake’s perfumed paean to myrrh, the titular resin’s rays are refracted through an aldehydic prism and rendered crystalline.

Comparisons with No.5 are perhaps inevitable, though where the Chanel famously relies upon the series of aldehydes C10-12 for its characteristic fizz, most prominent in La Myrrhe is mandarin aldehyde whose long lasting mandarin-orange sparkle extends through most phases of the perfume’s development. Benzaldehyde seems to be present too, noticeable in the top as a nutty, almond note and possibly some anisaldehyde complementing the natural licorice-like facet of myrrh.

From time to time, I detect faint terpenic whiffs resembling pine, together with some beautifully inconspicuous spices that add a slight piquancy. Pillowy musks and a none-too-sweet amber accord anchor the fragrance and provide the merest whisper of powder.

Nose: Christopher Sheldrake

House: Serge Lutens

Release date: 1995

Notes (per Fragrantica): mandarin, myrrh, lotus, bitter almond, sandalwood, honey, jasmine, amber, musk, various spices and pimento

El Attarine Review

El Attarine's orchestration involves a delicate interplay of the dry and the sweet.

Borne aloft on the cedar-like breeze of Iso E Super, a judicious dusting of cumin and cinnamon soon blends into the spicy, maple syrup tones of immortelle while violety ionones dance above a subtle accord of dried fruits. Offsetting the arid base of pale woods is a consoling drizzle of honey that lends the composition a softsmooth texture.

If the theme is a familiar one for Lutens and Sheldrake, it is here explored with a uniquely light touch, felt also in the perfume’s relatively modest sillage.

Nose: Christopher Sheldrake

House: Serge Lutens

Release date: 2008

Notes: Solaire. Traduit tout ce qui est odoriférant. La route des parfums en un jus solaire.

Bang Review

Although Marc Jacobs' Bang is structured around a woody-amber skeleton that recalls a myriad modern men’s fragrances, it bravely renounces the citrus and metallic lavender embellishments typical of the genre. Instead, Yann Vasnier fleshed out the composition using Givaudan’s aptly named patent molecule Pepperwood. Boosted by a large helping of Iso E Super, the effect is a bright, diffusive, woody, and above all peppery fragrance with strong mossy undertones.

Nose: Yann Vasnier

House: Marc Jacobs

Release date: 2010
Notes (per Fragrantica): black, white and pink pepper, masculine woody notes, elemi resin, aromatic benzoin, vetiver, white moss, patchouli

Orlando Review

Orlando by Jardins d’Écrivains bears more than a passing resemblance to another piece of faux Elizabethanism: No.88 by Czech & Speake (1980).

Where the latter commences with a whoosh of invigorating geranium and citrus, Orlando cuts straight to the common heart of musty, balsamic rose that’s a bit sweet, a bit earthy-spicy, and oddly redolent of head shops.

A matte pallor though soon overtakes Orlando revealing a base of paste-y musks tinged with some lingering oakmoss (-replacer).

Nose: Anaïs Biguine

House: Parfums d’Écrivains

Release date: 2013
Notes (per Fragrantica): orange, pink pepper, ginger; amber, patchouli cloves; guaiac wood, peru balsam, musk

Fleurs de Sel Review

Fleurs de Sel is an unusual aromatic chypre.

With distinct marine overtones, the perfume opens to a rich accord of Herbes de Provence, citrus and dry, woody florals. Like some kind of medieval poultice, its medicinal associations are strengthened by a notable dose of clovey (iso-/) eugenol. In the drydown, a restrained base emerges smelling of vetiver, a touch of hay and real oakmoss.

Although Fleur de Sel’s myriad elements work in surprising concert, for me, the whole never quite manages to add up to more than the sum of its parts.

Nose: Miller Harris

House: Miller Harris

Release date: 2007
Notes (per Fragrantica): rosemary, thyme, clary sage, angelica, salt; iris, rose, narcissus; leather, amber, oakmoss, vetiver.

Carnal Flower Review

Dominique Ropion's take on a tuberose soliflore opens green and camphorous. Exaggerated yet avoiding all-out caricature, the cooling top notes contrapose the heavy, complex heart that, faithful to tuberose's character, has jasmine-, lily- and orange blossom-like facets. Sweet, coconuty lactones meanwhile, lend the bouquet its characteristic creaminess and contribute to an overall tropical vibe. More sultry than carnal, it is nevertheless a glorious example of perfumery in the grand style.

Nose: Dominique Ropion

House: Editions de Parfum Frédéric Malle

Release date: 2005
Notes (per Fragrantica): bergamot, melon, eucalyptus; ylang-ylang, jasmine, tuberose, salicylates; tuberose absolute, orange blossom absolute, coconut, musk.