The story of Iris Silver Mist’s conception is now firmly
established in the canon of perfume myth: Maurice Roucel, it is said,
plugged the organoleptic term ‘iris’ into his fragrance database and set about combining
all the results returned to create this scent. Besides a very respectable amount
of orris butter (4.5%), the perfume contains a high dose of Isoraldeine (methyl
ionones) and the IFF base Irival.
As its name suggests, Iris Silver Mist is intended to
showcase orris’ impressive vocal range, from its ringing, silvery-metallic ‘top
notes’ to its damp, vegetal-earthy fond. It’s in its mid-register however,
where the scent sings most sublimely, developing a delicately powdered
green-floral accord of intense beauty. The natural woodsy facets of iris meanwhile,
are elaborated by the addition of cedar oil that coaxes forth a distinct
nuttiness in the composition. Then slowly, almost imperceptibly, the perfume begins to darken in hue as the sweetly
spiced, clovey odour of (Iso-)eugenol takes over, guiding the transition to a base
of coumarin and plump musks.
Nose: Maurice Roucel
House: Serge Lutens
Release date: 1994
Notes (per Fragrantica):
orris root,
galbanum, cedar, sandalwood, clove, vetiver, musk, Chinese benzoin, incense, white
amber.
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